Penny Farthing Bicycle

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Powder Keg:
I have been looking at fork designs. I came across a set made by a company called Hillmen Herbert Cooper. They had a model that had double hollow forks. I kind of like them. I think they also should be easy enough to make, fancy:o) Here is a link. H.H.C. And some more Double hollow Fork They should also be a little lighter, making it easier to peddle\o/

Stay tuned.....

~Wes~

andyf:
Those forks look good, Wes. Earlier on, I wondered how you would go about making forks which looked elegant when you said:

--- Quote ---I need to nail down the head design I'm going to use. I'm trying to make everything "look right". And be build-able. I would like some lighter forks. But tapered oval tubing would be tough for me to make.
--- End quote ---

Even if made with straight rather than tapered tube, double forks would give the impression of a taper, and the smaller diameter tube would fit well with the slender outline of a penny farthing.

Andy

Powder Keg:
I stayed up late last night and drew up my new forks. After work today I machined these pieces out. They are the top and bottom bracket for my forks. Hopefully I got everything right:o) I'll know more when my tubing shows up. The holes for the tubing are not round. This will let the tube rest in each hole at an angle. This way I didn't have to drill angled holes. The little gap left will be filled in when I braze the parts together.

I used a feature in Mastercam called Tabs. They hold the part as it's being cut out. Now I can just nick them with a grinder and file the tabs off.

~Wes~

Powder Keg:
A good friend of mine used to say "There is more than one way to skin a cat. But sometimes it's nice to save the skin" :o)

I've been silently looking around on the internet for tire tools to mount my new tires when the time comes. There several ways they are mounted. The fellow I bought the tires from stretches the wire, with a come-along, then gives the wheel a twist. This locks the stretched wire/tire onto the rim. The twisted wire joint is clipped and pinched together then the tire is bumped together. You can see it here. http://http://www.hiwheel.com/tire_install.htm

Another way is to stretch the wire/tire onto the rim. There are several style stretchers out there.

Some use a threaded rod.

Some use a gearbox that twist some pins. The wire is wrapped around the pins stretching the wire.

There is the one where the tire wire is wound around a bolt to be stretched.

These use some type of clamp to hold the tire apart and clamp the wire tight at the same time. That way the wire can be Silver soldered/brazed together and not melt the rubber.

Like this.

There are Even a couple Videos on the subject.
Thanks Dave!!!

Thanks Graeme!!!
&feature=related

Recently a fellow (Walter:o) told me about a third tool. This is a homemade affair. It is nice and simple. Just a piece of all thread, some nuts welded together, and a couple Sockets. With his tool to stretch the tire/wire around the rim. Then you back the stretcher off counting the number of turns. Then pull the wire/tire off the rim and wind up the tool again plus 2 turns. Clip the wire, Silver solder it together, let everything cool and then pull the clamp off the wire. Then just roll the tire onto the rim. Here is his description of the use of his tool.

This is the end that spins on the all thread ,. any variation of this idea will work ,, usually i would have a pair of vice grips on this end , and they will keep it from spinning while the all thread is moving,

This is the smart end ,i would mount the nut into a vice -that keeps the end secure and makes the work easier

This tool i use to roll the tire and to adjust the grain of the rubber , sometimes when you roll it on you can see the rubber grain is wavy , this helps correct that situation ,also one of the tricks to rolling on the tire is before you are rolling the final section, if you twist the rubber in the opposite direction ,and then roll it over the rim ,it should line up nice ,,

This method the wire has less tension while it is being soldered. I kind of like that idea.

Every one I've read about is "The Best way" But they all seem to work fine. I'll have to decide for myself.

Thanks,

~Wes~

Powder Keg:
I started on part of the steering head. This threaded lug will get welded into the top bracket. It sticks out the top so I wanted it to look nice. I drilled and taped my scrap/material.

I then roughed out the profiles. This gives me a basic idea where the features will rest.

Then a little filing and sanding. I file until the lines flow nice then sand things smooth.

I probably have 40 min. into this part so far.

more soon:o)

~Wes~

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