The Shop > Finishing

Black oxide - how/where?

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Ned Ludd:
Hi AdeV,
What about trying Delway, they do "metalblak".
Thinking of Delway, have you dissolved your broken tap yet?
Ned

winklmj:
Heat and used motor oil. I've heard it mentioned many times. Some heat then quench. Some dunk then heat. Here's a topic:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3766.0

AdeV:
Ned - I hadn't thought of him, no... I'd not managed to get hold of him for the cartridge cleaner, then the nitric acid arrived from another source so I didn't try again...

Following winklmj's links (ta!) I found a copy of the Delway price list... so far, the Cold-ox kit looks like the lowest cost for maximum chemicals :)

stovebolt:
Ade, there is an old process called rust bluing,  until the use of caustic salts for gun bluing, they simply let the clean steel rust, then boil in water, after which "card"  it,  which means buff it with a fine stainless steel wire wheel or by hand with 0000 steel wool. To test this I'm sure you have some rusted steel about, all you have to do is boil it.  As for rust inhibiting, I'm sure it still requires a coat of oil. 

 ( caution, this is a gun site, in case you have any big brother problems) 

http://www.winrest.com/blueinstructions.html

After reading about this I remembered doing some electrolytic rust removal, so I tried it, I think the finished product is pretty much the same,

     

andyf:
Ade, you don't say what your "steel part" is.  If it's your QCTP, my quick and dirty approach would be to heat it until it just begins to glow dark red, then chuck it into a can of old engine oil (from a diesel for preference)*. Have something available to put over the can to smother any flames, and let the component cool down before you fish it out, or it might ignite the surface oil. 

Best done outdoors, obviously, and at dead of night, too, so you can judge when it "just begins to glow dark red".

* I have never tried it, but some swear by vegetable cooking oil.

Andy
 

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