The Shop > Finishing
Black oxide - how/where?
AdeV:
Hi Andy,
The part is, as you surmise, my QCTP... the only problem I have with heating it is, I don't have any means of heating such a big lump of metal with any hope of keeping it even close to a uniform temperature, not to dull red at any rate. I can get it up to a couple of hundred degrees C in a toaster oven, but I suspect that won't be enough.... hence the idea of cold blacking which, in conjunction with some displacing oil, seems to do a reasonable job of rustproofing whilst making the part look pretty too...
Artie:
Hi Ade, I used commercial gun blue. A bottle which I have used for 6 tool holders still has a useful amount in it, http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3206.0 I dont know if this is an Aussie brand (I suspect not given the bottle size in ounces), probably different over there. Ends up looking like the bought stuff over time, it gets darker over several days. I heated this til it was just too hot to handle comfortably, certainly not HOT, then blued.....
The bottle pictured in the link cost $14 Aus (approx 6 pounds??)
Good luck.
Rob
No1_sonuk:
--- Quote from: stovebolt on August 14, 2010, 05:54:15 PM ---Ade, there is an old process called rust bluing, until the use of caustic salts for gun bluing, they simply let the clean steel rust, then boil in water, after which "card" it, which means buff it with a fine stainless steel wire wheel or by hand with 0000 steel wool. To test this I'm sure you have some rusted steel about, all you have to do is boil it. As for rust inhibiting, I'm sure it still requires a coat of oil.
--- End quote ---
There was an item about a shotgun in an episode of "How Stuff's Made" on TV a while ago.
In that, they boiled the barrel in "salt water" (not sure if it was really the "caustic salts" you mentioned) to rust it, rinsed in fresh water to stop the rusting, then soaked it in oil. As long as it's kept oiled, it won't rust.
AdeV:
I eventually bought the 4-litre kit from Caswell Europe, and earlier today blacked up the body of my QCTP:
Although it didn't seem to be working terribly well at the time, the finish has actually come out very well. I've not tried scratching it to see how deep it is - I'm sure it'll scratch over time - but it certainly looks the part.
cidrontmg:
It certainly does. My Tectrated surfaces were/are quite scratch-proof. I donīt remember how long ago I blackened some tools, but many years ago (>10). They still look excellent. Just occasional wipe with an oily rag, thatīs all. Outside corners are vulnerable, as you might expect, but from a flat surface, it takes an effort to remove the oxide.
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