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Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
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Stilldrillin:
Chris,

I think the word is, perseverance.......  :thumbup:

You are so close..... You will have a runner!  :)

David D
raynerd:
Well it is back open again. The only thing that I wasn`t 100% happy with was the displacer piston. I`m going to get some fresh material for that and replace it, seal the unit back up again and then concentrate on mods to the top of the engine to get it running. Fingers crossed.

I was proud of myself last night, I opened it up and started making a new displacer. Things were going wrong so guess what I did.... yes, I managed to leave it and put it down for the night...  :med: :med: :med: :med:  I couldn`t believe myself!
sbwhart:
Keep at it Chris you have all the basics for a runner you just have to slowly work at it and tease it into life, your at the point that we all arive at with a new engine of really learning about it, making the engine is only part of the story, getting it running is the last and most important chapter.

Stew
NickG:
Not far off now Chris,

I think your gap of 1mm around the displacer piston probably was too big so it'll be that and friction that are your enemy. Sorry I haven't seen your videos yet but as Dean says, try more heat or a couple of ice cubes on top plate. I had to do the ice cube trick on my stirling to initially get it to run, which helped troubleshoot.

Something else that isn't easy to see but just worth checking, is there definitely 90 degrees in your timing? Things can slip / move etc.

Nick
madjackghengis:
Hi Chris, I just watched your balancing video, and it seemed to me you are a bit tight on the bearings there.  I've not built an LTD stirling, but studied them a bit, planning on one, but I have lots of experience balancing shafts in ancient military radio and radar equipment, and the flywheel should coast more I believe, yours seems to stop rather certainly and not just drift to a stop.  Another thing, the use of the foam seems to be standard these days, but punching out holes in the displacer, and inserting stainless steel wool, boiled clean, as a "regenerative material", accumulating heat as the displacer moves down, and being a very poor conductor of heat, giving it back up to the air, as the displacer moves up, is also supposed to be a substantial improvement in efficiency, with about a third of the displacer area being replaced by the stainless wool being the norm.  Friction is the main enemy in any event.  good luck, I hope to see a running video instead of a balancing video, next. :nrocks: mad jack
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