My Attempt at making a A2Z QCTP Holder

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wongster:
You mean, the brass nut can be purchased?! and all the while I thought it was custom made... silly me. There again, I've not seen such a nut in any hardware stores here. I'll bring one out from tomorrow onwards. Will ask around as and when I've appointments at industrial park or hardware stores.

wongster:
Tonight is frustrating. Thought I can spend some time at least to bring the stock to size when my wife is out for a church meeting. The deepest DOC of my endmill is .75", so I thought of flycutting the 25mm stock down to .75" before I clean up the sides. After mounting the flycutter, I remembered that I had problem with the uneven cut with the flycutter. So out came the flycutter. Replaced it with the DTI and started tramming my mill. It was leaning to the left by around .1mm and .04mm backwards. Managed to get the z axis to about .03mm towards the left but can't seem to move it much forward (tilting back still) even after removing the shim I placed in the spacer block to tilt it backwards when it was leaning forward.

The measurement was done with a square mounted on the vise with the DTI moving up and down the blade of the square.

Anyone has any suggestion on how to tram this? I was following the instruction provided by Sherline. Hope I was doing this correctly all this while.

Regards,
Wong

winklmj:
Ask for "knurled nuts".

NickG:
I always like watching these QCTP projects, one day I'll pluck up the courage to make one myself!

Good luck.

Nick

madjackghengis:
Hi Wong, while I have never worked on one of the Sherline mills, I can't see any reason for not tramming it as I do my bridgeport clone. I have a plate of aluminum which is parallel front to back within the limits of my measuring equipment, and I lay it on the table of my mill, after wiping it off with my palm, to make sure there are no new dings or tiny bumps hiding, then I center the spindle over the plate approximately, and I use a Starrett "last word" indicator with a post in the collet with a hole parallel to the table, and a piece of 3/16ths rod through the hole, held in place with an allen screw, and with the indicator at the end, circumscribing a circle of about four inches or so. I tram my head to within half a thousandth in all directions, generally pretty straight forward, and that is about the limit of my machine, given it has to have clearance to move the table, and trying to get past half a thousandth and have a free moving table is about impossible. Your "table" should be flat and perpendicular to your column, and perpendicular to your "Y" axis, getting the column trammed side to side should be fairly easy with the hardware holding it to the base, and if you are within .04mm front to rear, you should be able to either shim it up to spec, or inspect it and find out why it is not square to the table, and use hand tools to fit it up square. Do not trust squares you buy, but only those you've personally checked, and ensured are right on. You can flip your square around in the vise and tram vertical, and see if it shows the same out of true, but in the opposite direction, in which case your square is right, and while shims are a time honored tradition, avoiding them, and getting the machine parts mated right is an even older tradition, and certainly of greater honor. A great deal of accurate work can be done with a simple file and a scraper. I hope I've helped a bit :poke: mad jack

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