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| 1949 Delta/Milwaukee 14" Band Saw |
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| Rog02:
In the last episode of "As The Nut Turns" I finished off the hardware and small parts. Since I have been otherwise occupied for the last couple of weeks with races, auction, and chauffeuring my elderly mother to the doctor, I haven't got to spend much time in the shop. I finally got some time to spend with the project. Thursday evening I wet sanded the previously painted stand parts and re-shot them. They came out nice, smooth and shiny. After letting the paint cure overnight, I assembled the stand Friday morning and set it aside for the time being. From this: To this: I spent a couple of hours cleaning and masking the machined surfaces on the saw frame castings. I prefer to mask all moving surfaces with a couple of layers of heavy masking tape prior to blasting so as to preserve the finish. Once the masking was complete I proceeded to the dirty job of sand blasting the castings which took a few hours considering the warm weather and need to wear a long sleeve shirt for protection. I took several breaks to cool off and police up the re-blast so as not to track it into the shop. Once everything was cleaned to a "near white blast" finish, I set up a table and set out all the parts so as to expose the bottom surfaces for painting. I wanted to get the bottom surfaces coated so they could cure overnight, allowing me to re-orientate them the next day. The following morning, I reset the paint table to expose the upper surfaces. This picture is of the parts after the first of three coats. Notice the multiple layers of newspaper I used to mask the table surface prior to blasting, what does not readily show is that I also masked all openings so to prevent sand from migrating up to the back side and scarring the table surface. I allowed the paint to flash to a "tack" between coats. An old painters trick is to test the dryness with the back of your middle finger. By doing this you leave no finger prints. Paint over sprayed onto masking will usually dry at a faster rate so testing by touching the masking is not always a good indicator. I usually start by testing the masking and when satisfied that it is dry I test the actual surface in an inconspicuous location. I have set the castings aside to cure for a couple of days before re-assembling them on the stand. That leaves the sheet metal blade guards to blast and paint. The forecast is rain this week so it might be later before I can finish the paint. |
| Divided he ad:
Comming along nicely me thinks!! ;D I like the way you do these reatorations, it is nice to read an how it's done. I have a few old tools now... Circle cutter, toggle press and an 18" surface table. All have had their lifetime of service and are semi-retired with me.... I will never punish them like they used to be so might carry out some of this type of work in the future.... Got to finish the house and build a new workshop first though.... So it might be a few years!!! Still, good to see how the care is taken. Ralph |
| Bernd:
Starting to look nice there Roger. :bow: I've got a Bridgeport that could use a cosmetic make over. You free after you finish the saw? ::) ;D Just kidding. ;) Bernd |
| Rog02:
--- Quote from: Bernd on October 14, 2008, 09:28:14 AM ---Starting to look nice there Roger. :bow: I've got a Bridgeport that could use a cosmetic make over. You free after you finish the saw? ::) ;D Just kidding. ;) Bernd --- End quote --- The short answer is, NO! ;) I already promised my buddy that I would do his Walker Turner 16" Metal/Wood Saw next. My advise on the Bridgeport is to take lots of pictures for reference when re-assembling. I did a couple at the helicopter company that were flood damaged in 1993. I did them one at a time and found myself running out to the shed and across the shop to see how the other one was assembled. Also have an engine hoist available to handle the heavy lifting. I ended up moving the first one to a place I could reach with the overhead gantry and used it for R&R the head and table. Saved a lot of hernias and dropped parts. It also made loading the castings onto the shop carts for moving back to the paint dept. a breeze. Another tip is to figure out a way to secure the head at a decent working height for dis-assembly and re-assembly. I don't know which head you will be dealing with, but I ended up bolting the ways down to a metal top work table that was heavy enough to support the head without tipping over. One shop I know of uses a cheap engine stand to store their small head when they remove it from the combination machine for horizontal use. Whatever the model it sure makes it a lot easier to work on than standing on a step ladder. I would figure on just replacing all the bearings while you have it apart. It is a heck of a lot easier to do it then rather to do them onesys and twosys at a later date, especially if you have a job waiting. The trick is to think your way completely through the job first. |
| Brass_Machine:
Hey Rog Those parts are looking pretty good so far. That stand looks like an OEM replacement part, not a refinished one. Eric |
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