Bandsaw blade wax?

[johnny123]

Hello

Does anyone know of a wax used on band saw blades when cutting aluminum, or any other lubricant that works well? I am using a little 9 in vertical saw to cut thin aluminum and the speed is too fast to keep it cool. I haven't been buying good quality blades and they are done for very quickly when they get hot too many times. Just looking for something to help extend the life of them.

[Dean W]

Not sure if it will work for power band saws, Johnny, but I use plain paraffin wax, (candle wax) for cutting aluminum with my fret saw and hack saw.  Works well for that.  I guess it could melt and make a mess if the blade is getting that hot, though. 
I take it you can't slow it down?
Aw, you would have though of that!

Maybe buy some good blades.  They make a difference on my 1/4" wide band saw.  Last a long time.
Dean

[Bernd]

WD40 might work but would make a mess I would think.

Bernd

[WSnyder]

Here you go http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=2575&PMITEM=05651583&PMCTLG=00 I use the Castrol Wax Stick

[johnny123]

Hello Dean

Good to see you! I have been checking out this band saw and I do believe I can turn a couple of pulleys to slow it a little. I am curious if I might be able to run it off say an  O-ring rather than the 6 rib belt? I can increase the size of the driven pulley from the original 2.5'' to a 3.5'' and decrease the drive pulley from 2'' to about 1''. Should slow it some I think?

[Dean W]

That would probably help. 
Really, a good quality blade makes a big difference.  I use one that Sears sells as Craftsman.  It's 14tpi heat treated tool steel.  They only run about $15 and I cut brass and aluminum sheet with it all the time.  The package says it will cut sheet steel and CI as well.  I've had this band saw for well over 10 years, and have only replaced this blade on it twice.

Worth a try, maybe.

Dean

[madjackghengis]

Stick lubricant is available from most tool supply houses, and it works great on band saws for all kinds of metal including steel.  It is also good for loading the flutes of a tap so the chips are forced out as the tap goes in, and it lubricates the tap better than most other things.  It makes good lubricant for hand loading ammunition, and works great with a hand drill or drill/driver, sticking the drill bit in it, to drill overhead and other places liquid lube doesn't work.  I'm using the Castrol stick at the moment, but it may be a different one, next time I run low and order, they are all pretty good.  mad jack

[jatt]

Remember when I tried some coolant on the blade my then new bandsaw.  Darn blade started slipping on the pulley.  Wont do that again.

Once the blade that came with the saw died, I got a couple of decent ones custom made.  Wise move in my opinion.

Glad mine has speed control.

[Rog02]

I realize that this is an older topic, but a couple of thoughts from the R&D shop might help.

The recommended FPM for soft alloy aluminum is approximately the same as for wood so your set up should be fine.  About 2,200 foot per minute by my charts.

Blade lube is always nice.  It keeps the aluminum from plugging the tooth gullets and lowers the friction on the blade running through the kerf.  As other have stated there are regular wax sticks available.  when I need to lube a blade and do not have a stick handy I use cheap bar soap.  Just saw a bit into the soap to coat the gullets and then rub it on the sides of the blade.  Repeat as needed.   Liquid coolants are a mess unless the saw is designed with a cooling system in mind.  If the saw has rubber tired wheels on it liquid coolants are pretty much out of the question. 

Material being cut is the determining factor on blade speed.  Machinery Handbook has the charts as do the major manufacturers like Starrett, and Irwin.  If you can't slow the saw down to the right speed it will eat your blade even though the same blade will cut said material just fine at the rated speed.  My charts tell me cast iron cuts at 255 FPM and I use the same blade that I whiz through aluminum at 2,200 FPM. 

Material thickness is the determining factor on TPI.  A good rule of thumb is to keep 4 teeth in contact with the material at all times.  Three seems to work but any lower tooth contact and it starts breaking teeth if not entirely snapping the blade.  Too fine of tooth count can be problematic on thicker materials as well, slowing the cut, building excessive heat, etc. 

[Lew_Merrick_PE]

There are many brand names, but cetyl alcohol is the material.  If you can purchase it by that name, it's less expensive.  Some people who make soap will have some in stock.

[BobWarfield]

BTW, the sticks are great on a bandsaw, but they also help keep your sanders (belt or disc) from loading up so fast.

Cheers,

BW
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