Author Topic: Heinrici type stirling  (Read 29506 times)

Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #25 on: June 09, 2010, 10:16:23 AM »
Hi Dean, you've definitely made a real impression with this Stirling engine :jaw:, it is among the most striking looking versions I've seen, and you've done a beautiful job in putting it together.  I like your use of silver solder, it is nice to work with when it is sufficient to do the job, and easier to use than some other options.  I think it leaves a nice reminder in the fillets and the like left behind, and lets you finish the pieces before soldering, and not have to finish up the joinery after the joining.  This one is definitely getting on my project list, it's much too interesting and intracate to avoid and would make a nice display piece to run in the house. :nrocks: :thumbup: mad jack

Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #26 on: June 09, 2010, 06:08:11 PM »
This one is taking shape quite nicely. Good job Dean!

Eric
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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #27 on: June 09, 2010, 06:33:24 PM »
Hi Dean

First class job  :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: great build log  :thumbup:

I see in most of you milling shots you use a tool plate instead of working straight off the mill table , do you do all your milling this way ?

Cheer Rob

Offline swhite

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #28 on: June 09, 2010, 07:43:19 PM »
Dean you are amazing!
Steve W.

Offline Dean W

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #29 on: June 09, 2010, 09:43:42 PM »

Stew, Jack, Rob, Eric, Steve, thanks much for the comments, guys!

I see in most of you milling shots you use a tool plate instead of working straight off the mill table , do you do all your milling this way ?
Cheer Rob

Rob, I've left that tool plate on the mill table since the day I first tried it on.  I like it.  I guess it suits my work habits.  It has enough
holes in it for plenty of work holding options, and someday, when I run a cutter to low, I won't have a doink in my mill table.  I
haven't done that in years, but now that I've said it.. well, you know.  The jig plate is cheaper than a new mill table!

Dean
« Last Edit: June 09, 2010, 09:45:20 PM by Dean W »
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Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #30 on: June 10, 2010, 08:41:26 AM »
Hi Dean, you know you've got a beautiful engine going together there, and I mean no disrespect when I say this, but watching you put grub screws into a flywheel at an angle just reminded me how much I hate doing exactly that.  Sometimes it seems like the only way, and it is seldom one gets a flywheel set up in such a way and gets to change it, but grub screws setting at an angle just isn't right somehow, and I always want to figure out an efficient and effective way to put them in straight, without making that part of the job take up more than its share of time and effort.  In these model engines, it's a small thing and more an aesthetic factor than an engineering one, but I suspect it is the reason there are several full scale means of attaching flywheels with split taper bushings and other methods, just to avoid the less desireable method.  I've got a couple of flywheels which will eventually have to go on the main shaft of a steam engine, and I'm not going to put angled grub screws in if I can work up the motivation to machine split taper bushings or something of the like instead.  I don't mean to be derogatory, I've hated them in the smallest of engines, that fit in the palm of your hand, and find them equally distasteful in full sized working engines powering machinery and equipment.  I keep thinking there ought to be a way to set up a made for the purpose, offset spindle arrangement which will allow drilling and tapping perpendicular in that very short space, and I keep trying to conceive of such a device.  The complements were not to mollify you, I am truly intrigued and impressed by the vision I have of the engine and all its gyrations when it is running, especially the timing offset of the displacer arms versus the power piston arms, it's just that engineering seems way above the level of the grub screws.  In any case, that engine is going to be a real winner and a work of art when it's done and running, I wish I could give a suggestion of a better way with flywheels, so I could use it too.  All in all, you've got a truly great engine going together and I look forward to the video of it running. :jaw: :bugeye: :thumbup: mad jack

Offline Dean W

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #31 on: June 10, 2010, 08:10:02 PM »
Jack, thanks for your thoughtful comments and suggestions.  I just look at set screws for what they are, as little fasteners.  
We don't think of them as being particularly elegant, probably because they are such a simple form.  

Their best use in this application is probably in holding a key firmly into it's keyways.  That won't work for this particular engine
because the one flywheel needs to be able to rotate on the shaft for timing purposes.  However, a taper lock would work for
similar flywheel/shaft relationships.  I've used those a lot in industry for holding sheaves to power shafts on large conveyors.  
I've made a few, too.

For making your own, turn the taper on the lock and in the flywheel hub at the same setup and you'll have a perfect fit.  Your main
limitation will be the size of screws needed for jacking out the taper lock to remove it once it has been snugged in.  The
smaller the taper lock, the smaller the screws.  I know from personal experience that down to 0-80 they work well.   You can make
the taper lock part itself quite small and it will still function as you'd expect.  The smaller they are, the thinner the wall of the taper
needs to be so it will compress from the pressure of the tiny locking screws.  Make the largest OD, the outer rim, large and thick
enough to take the compression and jacking screws without stripping.  

Show us what you come up with!

Dean
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Offline Dean W

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #32 on: June 13, 2010, 01:29:33 AM »
Hi all;

I'm going to run this engine with a Jerry Howell burner I built a few months back.  It's small, at only about 2" high.
It came out pretty well, and puts out a nice uniform flame.




I have enough pieces made for the engine now that I can give it a test run.  The picture above shows the flame
size I used for this run.  This run seems really loud for a stirling, and on another run, I found out why.  I didn't
have it mounted solid, just holding it with a gloved hand, and the base is vibrating this part of my work bench.
As soon as I lift it slightly off the bench, it's much, much quieter.






Well, it goes pretty darn fast.  At this point, too fast to see what's going on!  It also has a lot of poop, and
I can pinch the end of the crank pretty firmly between my fingers, and it just keeps going. 

Still have to make the mounting feet, the firebox door, and splash on a little paint.  Though it isn't in the
prints, I'm going to make a fan to be driven off a small pulley that will go on the right end of the crankshaft
to cool the cylinder fins.
I'll put more pics up as I get the finishing steps done.

Thanks for looking.

Dean
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Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #33 on: June 13, 2010, 03:56:15 AM »
Oh! My..... Oh! My..... Oh! ...... My.....  :bugeye:

Dean, that is marvellous!  :clap: :clap: :clap:

Success! Straight away......  :D


Blummin, WELL DONE!  :thumbup:

David D
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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #34 on: June 13, 2010, 04:06:48 AM »
Hi Dean  :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Sounds great to me  :thumbup: it really goes  some  :D  ,,, thats a COOL /HOT burner , :dremel:

Regards Rob




Offline sbwhart

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #35 on: June 13, 2010, 04:41:10 AM »
What a great bit of work never seen a Stirling go so quick, interesting to see what it does with a spirit burner just to see where it gets the humph from:- Design or Burner ?.
 
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:


Fantastic

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Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #36 on: June 13, 2010, 11:57:50 AM »
Hi Dean, regards for the suggestions on the flywheels and mounting, now, having heard your engine run I think I've seen the stirling engine I want to build once I'm done with the radial engine.  That is one impressive monster, and it sounds like a real powerhouse.  I think the efficiency of having the displacer and power piston in the same cylinder, and moving on the same axis is a major component of the power of that engine.  I've never seen a stirling that would not quit when one grabbed the end of the shaft, not a model anyway.  Congratulations, that is a great build, I've watched it about three times already and will again, tonight when I get back from work.  Did you work off plans, or just off knowledge of the design and making parts that fit?  If you've got plans to share, I'd sure like to see them.  :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :thumbup: :nrocks: :ddb: mad jack

Offline John Hill

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #37 on: June 13, 2010, 02:35:21 PM »
Congratulations on a beautifully made powerful runner! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
From the den of The Artful Bodger

Offline Dean W

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #38 on: June 13, 2010, 03:50:15 PM »


David, Rob, Stew, Jack, John, thanks very much for the comments.  It ain't done yet!

Stew and Jack, the prints say to use this burner, or a lamp.  I'll make a lamp for it eventually and show how it runs
on that another time.
 
Jack, the prints are from Jerry Howell.  I have a couple different sets from him.  He does nice, clear, accurate drawings.
They are under copyright, so can't be put up here, but you can get them for just $18 from his web site:
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/engineplans/stirling/duplex.htm
He died a while back, but his family continues to run the business.  He has a lot of neat projects there.
BTW, he mentions that this type of stirling, with the power piston and displacer in the same bore, would
be expected to be more powerful than engines with separate cylinders because the compression ratio will
be higher.  It does have a pretty good amount of compression for the type.  You can definitely feel it
when you crank it over.

Thanks again, fellows.

Dean
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Offline Dean W

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #39 on: June 17, 2010, 01:39:38 AM »
Hello all;

Got a few more things done for this in the past few days. 




It needs four feet to hold the firebox to a mounting base.  After figuring out where the first arc goes I took
a bunch of cuts using the boring head for the first one.  This is the only one I laid out.  All the other cuts
were done by returning to my zero point on the dials, flipping the piece, and cutting again.  Then swap
ends on the flat stock and do it again. 





When the two ends were done like this on the flat stock, they were cut off, and the two ends were done
again.





Ended up with these things. 





Then they were all clamped together, the top skimmed, a slot milled down the center, and using a
countersink, cut the start of a large 'V' shape that will go on the corners of the firebox.





Once I had a reference for the sides of the 'V', the pieces were turned on side and a pin in the spindle
used to get one of the flats square with the mill head.





Got rid of all the waste.





Since the firebox sides are angled toward the top, the 'V' cut on the feet can't fit up tight against it.
See the large gap on top?





To make them fit, the edges are beveled right up into the corners using a file.





To round off the ends around the mounting holes I made up a couple of filing buttons and had at it.



I got the inner parts of the flywheels painted, and found a suitable board to mount the engine.
Time for a trial fit-up.




Everything's just sitting there for the moment.  Not really bolted down.







(The base and flywheels are from the same can of paint.  Some lighting trick makes
them look different.  They really are the same!)

Still some hours of work to go.  Firebox door, mount for the burner, fan. 
Hope to get some more done in a few days!

Thanks for checking it out!

Dean

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Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #40 on: June 17, 2010, 04:52:10 AM »
Very nice work Dean.  :clap:

Even Mrs. D`s impressed.......  (She paused, while wielding her mighty duster!).  :thumbup:

I just ducked.......  ::)

David D
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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #41 on: June 19, 2010, 04:14:45 AM »
Stunning Dean  :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:


Regards Rob

Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #42 on: June 19, 2010, 09:35:21 AM »
Very very nice Dean. What a fantastic looking engine.

Eric
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Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #43 on: June 21, 2010, 08:05:00 AM »
Hi Dean, I've got to say, with the beautiful pictures and build log, added to that, the video of the running engine, and the thread to the source, I ordered the plans and the parts kit yesterday, couldn't help myself.  I only hope it comes out half as nice as the one you are finishing up.  The video made me do it, I simply couldn't help myself.   :jaw: :jaw:mad jack

Offline Dean W

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #44 on: June 23, 2010, 12:49:51 AM »


Thanks much everyone!

Even Mrs. D`s impressed.......  (She paused, while wielding her mighty duster!).

Wow.  I've never impressed a woman in any manner.  So...  That's a first, for me!
Mrs. D must be a very kind and tolerant lady.  What a peach!  : )

Making the door that goes over the cutout area on one side of the firebox where the burner slides in.
This took days of a bit here, bit there.  I'm a slow builder, and interrupted shop time makes it worse!





Cut out the door shape from 1/8" brass sheet using a jewelers saw.
I've never been really good at this, even though I've done it a lot.  I always end up with lots of file work.
I hope to be able to cut a straight line by the time I die.  I'll be satisfied at that point.  Hope I make it!





After the piece was mostly finished off with the file I made a small bushing that will allow the
door to swing to the side when it's mounted.  Some flux and a small piece of 45% silver wire, and
it was ready for the heat.
The wire on the bushing is holding it down so it will stay flush with the back side of the door.





Another piece is cut out for the door handle, and finished to the correct shape with the file.






The piece is clamped to the door, and again, flux and a couple of bits of 45% silver wire. 
I did just this end with the 45% wire.  The part in the middle and the end at the top of
the door next to the bushing was done with 56% wire.  Using the different silver alloys
I don't have to worry about the bushing at the top falling off when I do that end, since
45% wire melts at a higher temp than 56% wire. 
 




After getting the door handle brazed on, the piece was put in the mill and the back milled flat.
The heat had warped the piece a little and the milling was to surface the back so it will
fit flat against the firebox.





I milled down the front a bit too, partly because of the warp from the previous brazing heat, but
also because I goofed when doing the last heat on this piece.  I had the piece sitting at an angle
during the last heat, and of course a good deal of the brazing alloy ran off to the edge of the
piece when it got to heat.   I actually do know how to do this, even if it seems otherwise!

When the silver alloy ran down, it also left a visible groove where the handle edge meets the door. 
I admit to being a little frustrated at what was a simple brazing job, and ready to be done with it,
I decided to just run a line of regular solder over the visible groove.  Then it was filed and sanded.






That's one more piece done, and the last thing on the prints.  In the next few days I hope to get a
pulley made for the crankshaft, and a small fan built that will run off the pulley and cool the fins
on the cylinder.  I'll have the finished pics at that time, along with a video of the thing running
in its completed state. 

Hopefully just a few days to go.

Thanks again for checking in!

Dean

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Offline Dean W

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #45 on: June 27, 2010, 01:44:40 AM »
Time for making the cooling fan.




For the hub that will hold the blades I used a piece of 3/8" brass.  A groove was turned on one end for an o-ring belt,
and five slots cut around the circumference using a jewelers saw.




A piece of .010" brass sheet is cut into pieces for the fan blades.





A small bend is put in one end of each blade so it will hold fast to the slots in the hub.





When the blades are pushed into the slots, the bend keeps them in position for soldering.





Then, a little soft solder, and they're stuck for good.





I made a rim to go around the blades using the same .010" sheet.  Once I got it to the correct
length and rolled up so it fit the blades well, it was soldered up same as the blades.





So, there's the fan.  Onto the bracket that will hold it.





Using 1/16" brass sheet I laid out a pattern that looked about right and sawed it out with the
jewelers saw.





After some file work, the piece was put in the vise and the long tang bent square to the base piece.





Then a small bushing is soldered on that will hold the shaft that the fan will run on.





Cut the excess off that thing and rounded over with the file and this piece is done.





Last piece for this engine is the drive pulley that will run the fan.  The pulley will be mounted
to the crankshaft on the engine and an o-ring will be used to power the fan off the pulley.



The bracket for the fan got a few coats of black paint.  The fan got a few of the same red on
the flywheels of the engine.   



Time for a few finish shots:













Close up shots, warts 'n all:









Can't do a video until Monday.  I bought the wrong sized o-ring, and it's so tight the engine
won't turn freely.  It's about 1½" too short and is stretched to it's limit.  I have it put on
for pictures, but will have to get a new one Monday, and I'll have a new video sometime Monday evening.

Thanks to all of you who stuck with me to see this out!  I sure do appreciate the many remarks, suggestions,
and tips, and time you all took in making your comments!

Dean
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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #46 on: June 27, 2010, 04:09:40 AM »
Can you put arrows to show  were the warts are  :lol: :lol: :lol:  cracking build Dean  :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Looking forward to the Video


Regards Rob

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #47 on: June 27, 2010, 06:49:21 AM »
I don`t see no warts!  :scratch:

Blummin well done Dean. I`ve really enjoyed following your build!  :thumbup: :clap: :clap:

Looking forward to the video....... 

David D
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Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #48 on: June 27, 2010, 09:15:05 AM »
Hi Dean, you know there are laws about offering videos and then not showing them.  I use odd sized o-rings all the time, working on sealing various engine parts, and I usually keep the "extra" o-rings that come with some gasket kits just to cut and glue back together, with super glue, for a size I don't have.  It works well with o-rings for light belts as well.  In any case, the fan looks like it should work, and now you have a machine and not a model, because it has a defined purpose and isn't just to look at any more.  It looked so good in the video you did originally, I ordered the plans, and the parts kit, and they have arrived, so it will be built in and around the radial engine I'm working on, just to have something that is a bit less challenging when I'm not feeling like making ten of a part.  Really looking forward to the video with the fan going.  It's a beautiful piece of work, now about those warts....  :jaw: mad jack

Offline Mike K

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Re: Heinrici type stirling
« Reply #49 on: June 27, 2010, 05:03:01 PM »
Wow, great thread.   Excellent work, Dean.

Mike