Heinrici type stirling

[Dean W]

Hi all;

Thought I would share some pics of my current build, still very much in progress.  Not a complete build log here.  Just some
shots of the various parts and a few setups. 

This is from prints by the late Jerry Howell.  His family continues to operate the business, and they say all his products
will be available just as they were before his passing.
It's called a Duplex Vacuum engine, and is a Heinrici type beta engine.  Not a vacuum engine at all, but named so because it
was made in late 19th through early 20th century by the Duplex Vacuum Cleaner Co.

All these parts are made from bar stock using the 618 Atlas and Taig manual milling machine.
It still has quite a way to go.




Displacer arm and a couple of the crank rods.





The hot cap of stainless steel.





Milling out the bearing supports on the R/T.





And after much work with a Nicholson, nearly done.






Boring the cylinder.





And about finished but for the liner.





Here's a mock up of the parts thus far.  I have a few more things made.  I'll put up pics of
some more bits in a few days.

Thank you for having a look!

Dean

[Stilldrillin]

Dean,

You`ve made some beautiful parts there! 

I love all types of hot air engines. Looking forward to watching further progress...... 

David D

[Bernd]

Nice looking parts Dean. 

Those bearing supports, super work. All manually made right? No CNC involved in those curves?

Bernd

[Dean W]

David and Bernd, thanks!

Bernd, all manual machines, yes.  I run a clean shop.  No drugs, no CNC.


Dean

[Bernd]

I should have known better since I've been through your web site with a fine tooth comb and I didn't see one CNC. I think perhaps I had one of those senior moments. 

Many interesting projects there and much to get the mind working on using some of that info on my bigger machines.

Bernd

[Rob.Wilson]

Hi Dean 

WOW ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, very clean ,crisp work  to a high standard      I hope we will be seeing more of this engine build 


Regards Rob

[Dean W]

Bernd, thanks for the comments on the web site. 

Rob, I appreciate your nice remarks!

Here are a few more shots:



Con-rod and crankshaft being assembled with high strength sleeve retainer. 





Some of the various pins and rods.  The smaller ones are 1/16" dia.  I made a collet closer for the Atlas
a while back, and it sure came in handy for doing those wee pins.





Ground up a .022" circlip groove cutter to cut a couple of the pins for clips. 





Drilling to start a bored hole for the displacer can.





The displacer can and it's cap.  The can has a wall of .012".





Here's the displacer can complete





The parts so far.
Thanks for checking it out.  Will have some more in a couple of days.

Dean

[shoey51]

  just came accros this one 

looking forward to further instalments

Graham

[madjackghengis]

Looks like you've got a good start on an engine, Dean, looking forward to seeing how it all goes together and works.  Those are some fine looking parts you've machined. mad jack

[chuck foster]

wow 
you are doing some very fine machining...........i am sure jerry would be very pleased. 

chuck 

[MikeA]

Hello Dean,

Just found this thread and am enjoying your very nice craftsmanship - amazing stuff. Went through your website and got a number of ideas - I have an Atlas 618 and now have a Maximat V10P but can't bring myself to give up the little 618 - have to find a place to set up more equipment!

Best,
Mike

[Brass_Machine]

Wow Dean those parts look great! 

Even your swarf is neat! I mean look at how clean that is!

Eric

[Rob.Wilson]

  yep my thoughts 

Wow Dean those parts look great! 

Even your swarf is neat! I mean look at how clean that is!

Eric


Cheers Rob

[Dean W]

That's a bit of swarf porn fellows.  Best I can manage, anyway.

Thanks again for such nice remarks!

Dean

[Dean W]

A few more shots today, good people.




Turning/boring the cylinder liner.  It's about two inches long, and I did the boring first, then went to work on the
OD.  I put a piece of very wet paper towel in the finished bore to stop it from singing.  That drives me crazy.





That's it, done.  I made it for a .0005" interference, put the liner in the freezer and the cylinder in the toaster oven
at 300° f for 10 minutes, then pushed them together.  About halfway into the cylinder the brass started warming
up fast, and I had to use a little arbor press for the last bit.  Wasn't sure I was going to get it in.





But I got it run home with a bit of grunt on the press handle.





The piston is made of graphite, and I didn't have a collet to fit, so made a quick split collet from aluminum.  The position
was marked in the chuck so I could get it back in the same place, then it was taken to the mill and slit.





Then I could hold the piece of graphite firmly without worrying about crushing it.  After it was bored
and turned to a snug fit in the liner, I finished it off with a piece of index card.
I kept the shop vac nozzle over the tool post while cutting this piece.  Helped quite a bit, but still
had a light coat of black dust  everywhere.





That'll be it for today.  Here's the cylinder with its liner, the piston, and the split collet used to hold it.

Thanks for checking in!

Dean

[Dean W]

Hi all;
A few more pics of this project, today.



Turning the displacer shaft sleeve.  Fits in one end of the piston.





And turning up the piston wrist.  Fits in the other end of the piston.





The wrist gets a bit of milling.





Then those two bits go together with the piston and are all screwed together to form kind of like a sandwich.
I know this piston looks rough as a cob, but it is really, really smoooth.  And slikery.





When it's all put together, goes like this.
The displacer rod runs up and down through the center of the power piston.




The assembly, so far.

Thank you for looking in.

Dean

[Stilldrillin]

That`s all looking fabulous Dean!   

I`ve often wondered, in passing, how the "tandem piston" arrangement works..... 

I`ve almost got the idea, now! 

David D

[Bernd]

Impressive Dean.

Interesting looking linkage there. Ought to look great when running.

Bernd

[Rob.Wilson]

Stunning Dean 

M&M's never make it into my shop 


Regards Rob

[Dean W]

Thanks for your comments, fellows!

I have a few more updates on this construction.  
I'm going to use castings from PM Research (a company in the States) for the inner part of the flywheels.  I need to
make a couple of outer rims of steel to shrink onto the OD of these.  Haven't got to that part yet.
I couldn't hardly resist using these castings.  A 3.5" flywheel for $6 ain't bad.



Setup for drilling and tapping for the set screws.  When I put set screws, (grub screws) against a crank shaft, as will
be done for these flywheels, I put a small lead shot in the threaded hole first.  Keeps the set screw from scarring the
shaft.





Next, some squaring and boring for the top of the firebox.  The engine assembly gets mounted to this piece via the
four holes in the corners.





The gaskets that go between the hot cap and the rest of the engine were cut from ceramic fiber sheet.
This stuff is available here as a substitute for asbestos.  I can post the U.S. suppliers' contact info if
anyone would like it.





Cutting out the sides of the firebox, I began with a hack saw.  That was taking way too long by the time
I had got one of the four needed cut out.





The remaining three were cut out on the mill.  A lot faster.
Too soon old, too late smart!  I eventually figure this stuff out..





After the four pieces are cut to shape, the corners are filed to a 45° bevel.  Again, I did the first
couple using only the file.  The rest were roughed off with the bench grinder, then cleaned up to
the proper angle with a file.  





After the pieces are all filed, the bevels make for a nice fit-up.  
Much to do on these yet before they can be soldered up.

That's it for now.
Thanks for looking in.

Dean

[madjackghengis]

Hi Dean, that is one of the most interesting arrangements for a Stirling engine I've seen, and you're doing a great job on it, nice detail work and nice finish to the machined parts.  Looking forward to seeing it together, first of all, and then the run video.  That tandem piston setup is almost like a "Ringbom" Stirling, it looks like, using the same cylinder for both displacer and power piston.  Great work mad jack

[Dean W]

Hi Jack, and thanks for the kind remarks! 
The setup is kind of like a Ringbom, I guess, except on this one, the con rods for the displacer can and the power piston run concentric in the bore, and they both have their own rod throws, one connected to the crank, and one to another crank that runs off of the linkage off one end of a flywheel.  They run out of phase so the piston and displacer don't meet in the middle, one going up, the other going down.
It's an interesting mess. ;)
Appreciate your comments!

Dean

[madjackghengis]

Hi Dean, I've been studying Stirlings for some years now, for modeling purposes as well as the possibility of building one of useful size and power, but this is the first time I've seen this particular arrangement of the linkage, and you're right, it only resembles a Ringbom, it is an entirely different beast, and I really look forward to seeing it spinning under its own power.  Bernd said the linkage ought to look very interesting while its running, and I would have to second that.  It is the most interesting arrangement I've seen recent enough to remember, and I may very well try to duplicate your work and build one on that design myself, when I get done with the radial, the steam engine I started a couple years ago and didn't finish, it's just a matter of figuring out where it fits in the list of "to be done" projects which grows at about the same rate as my stack of books to read.  I'm thinking you might try going into overtime so you can get this done twice as fast, and we can see it spinning twice as soon, you do some very nice work, and its a truly unique build, inspiring. mad jack

[Dean W]

Hello fellows;

A few more pics.  Making a bit of progress.



After I know the pieces all fit well, they get stacked on the mill table, and bored for the arc that will show
in the bottom of the firebox/base.





One of the pieces gets a slot milled so the burner can slid in.





I twisted some single strand tie wire into a tight two strand braid, and wired up the four sides.  The braided wire
will stay put much better than a single strand of regular tie wire.  Flux, and four little bits of 56% silver brazing
wire, and heat it!





The sides are 1/8" CRS, and it took a while to get it up to heat.  I used two Bernzomatic type plumbers torches.
They are just the regular kind that take 1lb disposable cylinders.  I put MAPP gas in one of them to get a little
extra heat.  Isn't that just like an ol' rod burner.. More rod!  More heat!   (More money!)  ; )





Then did the same for the bottom corners.  The sides between the top and bottom corners will just get filled with
regular 96/4 solder. 





Then onto the mill to take a skim off the top so the engine base piece will sit nice and flat.





I put on the top the same way, with hard silver wire.  After this was done, all the edges got the regular
solder, and everything was filed nice and flat.





The flywheels I got from PMR are nice, but not large nor heavy enough.  So, turned up a couple of steel
rims from a piece of DOM, then skimmed the flywheel centers to fit the rims.





Another assembly shot.  Still half a dozen pieces to make, but it's getting there!

Thanks for looking,

Dean

[sbwhart]

Great work I like how you fabricated the tower.

Stew

[madjackghengis]

Hi Dean, you've definitely made a real impression with this Stirling engine , it is among the most striking looking versions I've seen, and you've done a beautiful job in putting it together.  I like your use of silver solder, it is nice to work with when it is sufficient to do the job, and easier to use than some other options.  I think it leaves a nice reminder in the fillets and the like left behind, and lets you finish the pieces before soldering, and not have to finish up the joinery after the joining.  This one is definitely getting on my project list, it's much too interesting and intracate to avoid and would make a nice display piece to run in the house. mad jack

[Brass_Machine]

This one is taking shape quite nicely. Good job Dean!

Eric

[Rob.Wilson]

Hi Dean

First class job  great build log 

I see in most of you milling shots you use a tool plate instead of working straight off the mill table , do you do all your milling this way ?

Cheer Rob

[swhite]

Dean you are amazing!

[Dean W]

Stew, Jack, Rob, Eric, Steve, thanks much for the comments, guys!

I see in most of you milling shots you use a tool plate instead of working straight off the mill table , do you do all your milling this way ?
Cheer Rob

Rob, I've left that tool plate on the mill table since the day I first tried it on.  I like it.  I guess it suits my work habits.  It has enough
holes in it for plenty of work holding options, and someday, when I run a cutter to low, I won't have a doink in my mill table.  I
haven't done that in years, but now that I've said it.. well, you know.  The jig plate is cheaper than a new mill table!

Dean

[madjackghengis]

Hi Dean, you know you've got a beautiful engine going together there, and I mean no disrespect when I say this, but watching you put grub screws into a flywheel at an angle just reminded me how much I hate doing exactly that.  Sometimes it seems like the only way, and it is seldom one gets a flywheel set up in such a way and gets to change it, but grub screws setting at an angle just isn't right somehow, and I always want to figure out an efficient and effective way to put them in straight, without making that part of the job take up more than its share of time and effort.  In these model engines, it's a small thing and more an aesthetic factor than an engineering one, but I suspect it is the reason there are several full scale means of attaching flywheels with split taper bushings and other methods, just to avoid the less desireable method.  I've got a couple of flywheels which will eventually have to go on the main shaft of a steam engine, and I'm not going to put angled grub screws in if I can work up the motivation to machine split taper bushings or something of the like instead.  I don't mean to be derogatory, I've hated them in the smallest of engines, that fit in the palm of your hand, and find them equally distasteful in full sized working engines powering machinery and equipment.  I keep thinking there ought to be a way to set up a made for the purpose, offset spindle arrangement which will allow drilling and tapping perpendicular in that very short space, and I keep trying to conceive of such a device.  The complements were not to mollify you, I am truly intrigued and impressed by the vision I have of the engine and all its gyrations when it is running, especially the timing offset of the displacer arms versus the power piston arms, it's just that engineering seems way above the level of the grub screws.  In any case, that engine is going to be a real winner and a work of art when it's done and running, I wish I could give a suggestion of a better way with flywheels, so I could use it too.  All in all, you've got a truly great engine going together and I look forward to the video of it running. mad jack

[Dean W]

Jack, thanks for your thoughtful comments and suggestions.  I just look at set screws for what they are, as little fasteners.  
We don't think of them as being particularly elegant, probably because they are such a simple form.  

Their best use in this application is probably in holding a key firmly into it's keyways.  That won't work for this particular engine
because the one flywheel needs to be able to rotate on the shaft for timing purposes.  However, a taper lock would work for
similar flywheel/shaft relationships.  I've used those a lot in industry for holding sheaves to power shafts on large conveyors.  
I've made a few, too.

For making your own, turn the taper on the lock and in the flywheel hub at the same setup and you'll have a perfect fit.  Your main
limitation will be the size of screws needed for jacking out the taper lock to remove it once it has been snugged in.  The
smaller the taper lock, the smaller the screws.  I know from personal experience that down to 0-80 they work well.   You can make
the taper lock part itself quite small and it will still function as you'd expect.  The smaller they are, the thinner the wall of the taper
needs to be so it will compress from the pressure of the tiny locking screws.  Make the largest OD, the outer rim, large and thick
enough to take the compression and jacking screws without stripping.  

Show us what you come up with!

Dean

[Dean W]

Hi all;

I'm going to run this engine with a Jerry Howell burner I built a few months back.  It's small, at only about 2" high.
It came out pretty well, and puts out a nice uniform flame.




I have enough pieces made for the engine now that I can give it a test run.  The picture above shows the flame
size I used for this run.  This run seems really loud for a stirling, and on another run, I found out why.  I didn't
have it mounted solid, just holding it with a gloved hand, and the base is vibrating this part of my work bench.
As soon as I lift it slightly off the bench, it's much, much quieter.

Well, it goes pretty darn fast.  At this point, too fast to see what's going on!  It also has a lot of poop, and
I can pinch the end of the crank pretty firmly between my fingers, and it just keeps going. 

Still have to make the mounting feet, the firebox door, and splash on a little paint.  Though it isn't in the
prints, I'm going to make a fan to be driven off a small pulley that will go on the right end of the crankshaft
to cool the cylinder fins.
I'll put more pics up as I get the finishing steps done.

Thanks for looking.

Dean

[Stilldrillin]

Oh! My..... Oh! My..... Oh! ...... My..... 

Dean, that is marvellous! 

Success! Straight away...... 


Blummin, WELL DONE! 

David D

[Rob.Wilson]

Hi Dean 

Sounds great to me  it really goes  some    ,,, thats a COOL /HOT burner ,

Regards Rob

[sbwhart]

What a great bit of work never seen a Stirling go so quick, interesting to see what it does with a spirit burner just to see where it gets the humph from:- Design or Burner ?.
 



Fantastic

Stew

[madjackghengis]

Hi Dean, regards for the suggestions on the flywheels and mounting, now, having heard your engine run I think I've seen the stirling engine I want to build once I'm done with the radial engine.  That is one impressive monster, and it sounds like a real powerhouse.  I think the efficiency of having the displacer and power piston in the same cylinder, and moving on the same axis is a major component of the power of that engine.  I've never seen a stirling that would not quit when one grabbed the end of the shaft, not a model anyway.  Congratulations, that is a great build, I've watched it about three times already and will again, tonight when I get back from work.  Did you work off plans, or just off knowledge of the design and making parts that fit?  If you've got plans to share, I'd sure like to see them.  mad jack

[John Hill]

Congratulations on a beautifully made powerful runner!

[Dean W]

David, Rob, Stew, Jack, John, thanks very much for the comments.  It ain't done yet!

Stew and Jack, the prints say to use this burner, or a lamp.  I'll make a lamp for it eventually and show how it runs
on that another time.
 
Jack, the prints are from Jerry Howell.  I have a couple different sets from him.  He does nice, clear, accurate drawings.
They are under copyright, so can't be put up here, but you can get them for just $18 from his web site:
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/engineplans/stirling/duplex.htm
He died a while back, but his family continues to run the business.  He has a lot of neat projects there.
BTW, he mentions that this type of stirling, with the power piston and displacer in the same bore, would
be expected to be more powerful than engines with separate cylinders because the compression ratio will
be higher.  It does have a pretty good amount of compression for the type.  You can definitely feel it
when you crank it over.

Thanks again, fellows.

Dean

[Dean W]

Hello all;

Got a few more things done for this in the past few days. 




It needs four feet to hold the firebox to a mounting base.  After figuring out where the first arc goes I took
a bunch of cuts using the boring head for the first one.  This is the only one I laid out.  All the other cuts
were done by returning to my zero point on the dials, flipping the piece, and cutting again.  Then swap
ends on the flat stock and do it again. 





When the two ends were done like this on the flat stock, they were cut off, and the two ends were done
again.





Ended up with these things. 





Then they were all clamped together, the top skimmed, a slot milled down the center, and using a
countersink, cut the start of a large 'V' shape that will go on the corners of the firebox.





Once I had a reference for the sides of the 'V', the pieces were turned on side and a pin in the spindle
used to get one of the flats square with the mill head.





Got rid of all the waste.





Since the firebox sides are angled toward the top, the 'V' cut on the feet can't fit up tight against it.
See the large gap on top?





To make them fit, the edges are beveled right up into the corners using a file.





To round off the ends around the mounting holes I made up a couple of filing buttons and had at it.



I got the inner parts of the flywheels painted, and found a suitable board to mount the engine.
Time for a trial fit-up.




Everything's just sitting there for the moment.  Not really bolted down.







(The base and flywheels are from the same can of paint.  Some lighting trick makes
them look different.  They really are the same!)

Still some hours of work to go.  Firebox door, mount for the burner, fan. 
Hope to get some more done in a few days!

Thanks for checking it out!

Dean

[Stilldrillin]

Very nice work Dean. 

Even Mrs. D`s impressed.......  (She paused, while wielding her mighty duster!). 

I just ducked....... 

David D

[Rob.Wilson]

Stunning Dean 


Regards Rob

[Brass_Machine]

Very very nice Dean. What a fantastic looking engine.

Eric

[madjackghengis]

Hi Dean, I've got to say, with the beautiful pictures and build log, added to that, the video of the running engine, and the thread to the source, I ordered the plans and the parts kit yesterday, couldn't help myself.  I only hope it comes out half as nice as the one you are finishing up.  The video made me do it, I simply couldn't help myself.    :jaw:mad jack

[Dean W]

Thanks much everyone!

Even Mrs. D`s impressed.......  (She paused, while wielding her mighty duster!).

Wow.  I've never impressed a woman in any manner.  So...  That's a first, for me!
Mrs. D must be a very kind and tolerant lady.  What a peach!  : )

Making the door that goes over the cutout area on one side of the firebox where the burner slides in.
This took days of a bit here, bit there.  I'm a slow builder, and interrupted shop time makes it worse!





Cut out the door shape from 1/8" brass sheet using a jewelers saw.
I've never been really good at this, even though I've done it a lot.  I always end up with lots of file work.
I hope to be able to cut a straight line by the time I die.  I'll be satisfied at that point.  Hope I make it!





After the piece was mostly finished off with the file I made a small bushing that will allow the
door to swing to the side when it's mounted.  Some flux and a small piece of 45% silver wire, and
it was ready for the heat.
The wire on the bushing is holding it down so it will stay flush with the back side of the door.





Another piece is cut out for the door handle, and finished to the correct shape with the file.






The piece is clamped to the door, and again, flux and a couple of bits of 45% silver wire. 
I did just this end with the 45% wire.  The part in the middle and the end at the top of
the door next to the bushing was done with 56% wire.  Using the different silver alloys
I don't have to worry about the bushing at the top falling off when I do that end, since
45% wire melts at a higher temp than 56% wire. 
 




After getting the door handle brazed on, the piece was put in the mill and the back milled flat.
The heat had warped the piece a little and the milling was to surface the back so it will
fit flat against the firebox.





I milled down the front a bit too, partly because of the warp from the previous brazing heat, but
also because I goofed when doing the last heat on this piece.  I had the piece sitting at an angle
during the last heat, and of course a good deal of the brazing alloy ran off to the edge of the
piece when it got to heat.   I actually do know how to do this, even if it seems otherwise!

When the silver alloy ran down, it also left a visible groove where the handle edge meets the door. 
I admit to being a little frustrated at what was a simple brazing job, and ready to be done with it,
I decided to just run a line of regular solder over the visible groove.  Then it was filed and sanded.






That's one more piece done, and the last thing on the prints.  In the next few days I hope to get a
pulley made for the crankshaft, and a small fan built that will run off the pulley and cool the fins
on the cylinder.  I'll have the finished pics at that time, along with a video of the thing running
in its completed state. 

Hopefully just a few days to go.

Thanks again for checking in!

Dean

[Dean W]

Time for making the cooling fan.




For the hub that will hold the blades I used a piece of 3/8" brass.  A groove was turned on one end for an o-ring belt,
and five slots cut around the circumference using a jewelers saw.




A piece of .010" brass sheet is cut into pieces for the fan blades.





A small bend is put in one end of each blade so it will hold fast to the slots in the hub.





When the blades are pushed into the slots, the bend keeps them in position for soldering.





Then, a little soft solder, and they're stuck for good.





I made a rim to go around the blades using the same .010" sheet.  Once I got it to the correct
length and rolled up so it fit the blades well, it was soldered up same as the blades.





So, there's the fan.  Onto the bracket that will hold it.





Using 1/16" brass sheet I laid out a pattern that looked about right and sawed it out with the
jewelers saw.





After some file work, the piece was put in the vise and the long tang bent square to the base piece.





Then a small bushing is soldered on that will hold the shaft that the fan will run on.





Cut the excess off that thing and rounded over with the file and this piece is done.





Last piece for this engine is the drive pulley that will run the fan.  The pulley will be mounted
to the crankshaft on the engine and an o-ring will be used to power the fan off the pulley.



The bracket for the fan got a few coats of black paint.  The fan got a few of the same red on
the flywheels of the engine.   



Time for a few finish shots:













Close up shots, warts 'n all:









Can't do a video until Monday.  I bought the wrong sized o-ring, and it's so tight the engine
won't turn freely.  It's about 1½" too short and is stretched to it's limit.  I have it put on
for pictures, but will have to get a new one Monday, and I'll have a new video sometime Monday evening.

Thanks to all of you who stuck with me to see this out!  I sure do appreciate the many remarks, suggestions,
and tips, and time you all took in making your comments!

Dean

[Rob.Wilson]

Can you put arrows to show  were the warts are    cracking build Dean 

Looking forward to the Video


Regards Rob

[Stilldrillin]

I don`t see no warts! 

Blummin well done Dean. I`ve really enjoyed following your build! 

Looking forward to the video....... 

David D

[madjackghengis]

Hi Dean, you know there are laws about offering videos and then not showing them.  I use odd sized o-rings all the time, working on sealing various engine parts, and I usually keep the "extra" o-rings that come with some gasket kits just to cut and glue back together, with super glue, for a size I don't have.  It works well with o-rings for light belts as well.  In any case, the fan looks like it should work, and now you have a machine and not a model, because it has a defined purpose and isn't just to look at any more.  It looked so good in the video you did originally, I ordered the plans, and the parts kit, and they have arrived, so it will be built in and around the radial engine I'm working on, just to have something that is a bit less challenging when I'm not feeling like making ten of a part.  Really looking forward to the video with the fan going.  It's a beautiful piece of work, now about those warts....  mad jack

[Mike K]

Wow, great thread.   Excellent work, Dean.

Mike

[Bernd]

Excellent model Dean. I liked the way you explained all the little builds of each part. Very nice.

Can't wait to see the video.

Bernd

[Dean W]

Rob, David, Jack, Mike, Bernd, thanks very much for the nice comments, fellows!

Jack, I use the gluing technique for o-rings too.  I have a couple of fat ones cut to size and super glued to use
on my WW lathe.  I don't have any 1/16" size to glue together though, but will have the right size tomorrow
when the auto parts shop opens.  So, just one more day for a video!
Hope you enjoy building yours.  I know what you mean needing to get away from long parts runs sometimes.
I'm setup to make small parts that I sell.  Sometimes, making 10 or 20 of something can be a chore!

Can you put arrows to show  were the warts are 
Regards Rob

Rob, this should do it, I think.  Didn't show them all...










 

Thanks again guys!

[Rob.Wilson]

Can you put arrows to show  were the warts are 
Regards Rob

Rob, this should do it, I think.  Didn't show them all...










 

Thanks again guys!

    nice one Dean 
nice touch 

Regards Rob 

[Dean W]

Darn it!  No video today, guys.  I'm a fibber.  Sorry.

It ran great before I painted it, as you saw in the video a few days back.  I muffed something on reassembly
and now it barely runs at all.  I'll sort it out and have a vid in a few days.

See Rob.  Does have warts!

I'll get it back to good soon.  Surly.

Dean

[Stilldrillin]

It ran great before I painted it, as you saw in the video a few days back.  I muffed something on reassembly
and now it barely runs at all. 

Dean

Too much bling, and not enough warts, I guess....... 

Good luck with the sort out Dean! 

David D

[Dean W]

Too much bling, and not enough warts, I guess....... 

Good luck with the sort out Dean! 

David D

I don't put "bling" on my stuff, David.  If I wanted the corners polished off, I could do that with a rasp. 
Just for you, though, I added a couple more warts and gave it another try!


Found out what the problem was.  Had a loose crank throw.  I guess the weight of the paint on the flywheels was
too much for it.  Fixed that thing.

Now it runs just like it did in the test run before I had painted it, though somewhat quieter
since it's now on a base with felt feet.

Here's the vid.  I started it off without the fan belt on, and when it was going, put on the belt.

A funny thing will happen right after I put on the fan belt.  I thought it was funny, anyway!
About halfway through the vid, I set down the camera for a few seconds to put on the belt.
Watch the fan. 



You guys go ahead and laugh.  I sure did.

I got that fixed, and fired it up for another go.  Ran out of batteries after about 15 seconds
and the camera shut down.  It's long enough to see that it works well, though.  Actually, it
blows more air than I thought it would, and was puffing the flame on the burner around quite
noticeably.  Usually, the flame is pure blue, but the extra air going into the hole in the firebox
was turning it yellow. 

You can see my hand trying to reach into one of the bottom arches to reach the air mixture
on the burner, but couldn't quite see to get it and run the camera at the same time.

I suppose that'll do.

Dean

[Rob.Wilson]

Hi Dean


I had a chuckle when the fan came off  ,,,  Sure is a great runner  , looking forward to your next build   


Regards Rob

[Stilldrillin]

Ooops!

Timing is all, Dean..... Great vids, great engine! 

David D

[madjackghengis]

Dean, that fan looks like a real winner, just a minor blip to deal with, keeping it on, but overall, that's one fine running engine, and a beauty as well.  You might try ducting the air supply for the burner in separately, to reduce the fan's interference, or maybe cover the upper holes on the sides.  I can't say I've ever seen a better running Stirling engine, and really look forward to building my own, so I can enjoy it as much as you seem to.  Top notch job, all the way around. mad jack

[Dean W]

Rob, David, and Jack, thanks much for commenting! 

Mad Jack, I think I'll just put a baffle in the hole.  That should probably do it.  I was kind of surprised that it blew that
much air down into the firebox, but it sure does.  I can feel a steady stream of air over the cylinder too, on the side
opposite the fan.  It really blows..

Dean