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| Ball Turner |
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| Jasonb:
I made mine all from steel with a 1/2" base and 2 1/2"dia body. Any of the model engineering metal suppliers will sell that sort of dia stock by the inch, if you are able to attend any of the shows then they usually have plenty of offcuts. I've not found the need for a bearing, just some grease and a bellview washser seem to work fine. This is mine in action If you need to order the metal then try these - College Engineering, EKP Supplies, Mallard Metals, Macc Model Engineers Supplies Jason |
| Stot:
--- Quote from: Jasonb on May 01, 2010, 07:01:09 AM ---I made mine all from steel with a 1/2" base and 2 1/2"dia body. Any of the model engineering metal suppliers will sell that sort of dia stock by the inch, if you are able to attend any of the shows then they usually have plenty of offcuts. I've not found the need for a bearing, just some grease and a bellview washser seem to work fine. This is mine in action If you need to order the metal then try these - College Engineering, EKP Supplies, Mallard Metals, Macc Model Engineers Supplies Jason --- End quote --- Thanks Jason, first search for College Engineering and they have 3" steel at £2.55/1" :thumbup: perfik Cheers Stot |
| Divided he ad:
Hi again.... Just read this, --- Quote ---with a VCGT type bit on top --- End quote --- And thought to myself.... You really should sink the tip into the steel "L" piece. If you mount it on top the screw alone probably won't have the strength to pin the tip down and it'll start to spin as you cut :bugeye: I used a slot drill (large enough to allow the tip sides fit in) to make a hole to the correct depth then a small endmill to clear the material from the sides. (I suppose some steady handed dremel work could do the sides too? :dremel: ) Found this when looking for the code of the tips.... Quite useful I thought http://www.iscar.com/ProductLines/Pdf/VCGT_CCGT.pdf . What height will be between the turret top and the cutting tip surface? cause this is what controls your maximum radius/cutting ability. If you make the lower part of the "L" long enough to still be clamped when it is set to the same distance as the answer to the above question then you will not need your clamped part any longer. If you make it too long it'll probably contact the chuck and or it's jaws...... That is quite scary. (there isn't a smiley for what I did!!!) If any of what I'm saying doesn't make sense just say :) (I'm not saying you won't understand it.... More that I do write some right carp now and again ::) ) From the look of the drawing you've already figured out not to drill through the turret, this is essential to the set up of the metal to metal version of this tool :thumbup: Have fun, make sure you show us some build pic's in the project logs section :thumbup: Ralph. |
| Darren:
I read somewhere that if you screw the insert down and mig weld around it that you can form the inset seat. Apparently mig welding heat won't affect the carbide or stick to it. I've not tried it so take the info with a pinch of salt till the theory has been proven :thumbup: |
| Stot:
The tip of the tool will be 40mm above the turret. so an ~80mm ball is possible. The L piece would then be held with 2 of the holding screws, which will probably be fine. I thought about needing an inset for the bit too, Ive only got an arc welder but i could give it a shot with an old dull bit and see what happens. ;) Ill definitively figure out something to hold it in place. :beer: Thanks guys. Cheers Stot |
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