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| Trion:
I'm a newb too. But blue chips from HSS tooling doesn't sound good. Hva you tried reducing the speed further? Or maybe smaller depths of cut? Carbide tooling would probably help, but make sure you get tools that use positive rake inserts, they cut much easier than the zero rake inserts. Should make a differnce if you have already had issues with stalling the lathe. Nice project btw. :thumbup: |
| Rob.Wilson:
Hi Chuck As Trion said ,,,, Plus make sure if you lathe uses V-belts that they are tight , as slippage will cause poor finish and dig in , as the belt slips then re-grips ,,, you could if possible try and get the tail stock centre up to give the work a bit more support . Regards Rob |
| Chuck in E. TN:
What a difference a day or two makes! I took a couple days off the RT project to plant my veggie patch, and to think about the issues. Today I started out using lighter cuts, and cutting oil. After again changing and honing bits, and using cutting oil, I managed to finish the registration face of the nose. I still had some chatter, and even managed to stall the lathe a few more times, but progress was better. You can see the chatter marks in the pic, but I'm still in the function/fit mode rather than pretty mode. Next, I’ll flip the nose over in the chuck and attack the undercut for the nuts to attach the faceplate or chuck. Then, transfer the bolt circle, drill and bore for the axel, counter bore for the washer and SHCS to hold the nose on the axel. |
| Bernd:
Chuck, I'd get another piece of material. SOunds like you've checked all the possibilities. Have you tried another material to make sure it's not the lathe? Bernd |
| Dean W:
Hi Chuck; Making some progress! That chunk of steel you got hold of is probably common HRS (A36) or something like 1018 CRS. Neither are very friendly to smaller lathes. They will surly cut fine, but smaller machines will want things to be "just so" to keep it from causing you headaches. By the amount of chatter in your earlier pic of this stuff in the chuck, it could be the belt, like Rob says. There are a number of other things to check, like gibs and your tool height. If your tool is truly sharp, then check the front clearance on it to make sure you have enough. Also, this kind of steel doesn't like to be plowed by the tool tip. By that I mean, the side of the tool that travels toward the chuck needs to be at less than 90° to the work piece. If it's possible, try to use something other than the 80t gear. Either 72, 60, 30, or 90 will give you an even division when you go to make your graduated dial, and will make your calculations much easier. The 80t gear will give you 4½° per rotation. Not handy at all. If you use 72t, it will give you an even 5° per turn of the hand wheel. For 60t you get 6°, for 30 you get 12° and for 90 you get 4°. Much handier to count up whole numbers when you go to index full degrees. A 72t would probably be best, but you have a 60t there and that would still work fine. Just something to think about. Thanks for the progress report! Dean |
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