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| John Hill:
If I may make a few suggestions on the subject of materials for a rotary table:- For the rotary bit look for a lathe face plate with T slots. I used one to make a rotatable vice mount on my shaper. Cast iron exercise weights from the local fitness store are an easy source of material although for a rotary table you might have to somehow sandwich a couple together. Incidently, if you are using these for anything it is a good idea to use a cold chisel to knock the lettering off before mounting in the lathe to true it up. It is not very difficult to make a worm and wheel especially if you are satified with a aluminium wheel. I wrote a topic on this at http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1773.0 |
| madjackghengis:
--- Quote from: Chuck in E. TN on April 25, 2010, 09:50:24 AM ---Being a rank amateur at machining, I am going to attack this build from that perspective. I could probably save up a few bucks, and purchase a rotary table from HF, or E-Bay, that would meet my needs, but where’s the fun in that? Or, I could buy all the parts and materials, and throw it together, but I doubt there would be any cost savings over buying a HF unit, and a lot less satisfaction. I will use the build write-up from Dean Williams’ site as a reference and giude. I went out to the shop this morning to start gathering materials. The first worm/gear set I mentioned are not suitable, as they are at the wrong angle. The second worm gear set has possibilities, but will require some work to be functional. The incline screw from the treadmill could be the donor for the worm gear, by cutting off a piece, boring through it and adding a set screw to mount it on a smaller shaft. This has the benefit of being the same thread pitch as the change wheels on my mini lathe. I have ¼” plate in aluminum and steel, and 3/8” in steel. The trick will be to find 4” square tube of sufficient wall thickness, or a suitable substitute. For the rotating part, the treadmill motor flywheels will not work as they are dished with fins, and not solid 1” thick rounds. The thickest part on one is only ¼ “. So I’m back to finding a 4” round of something 1-1 ½” thick. I include all these thoughts and decisions to show other armatures the process I’m going through. As with any posting on this board, I welcome suggestions and comments. --- End quote --- A long time ago, I made a very simple rotary table out of half inch plate steel, milling two half inch slots half way through one round plate, crossing in the middle, and milling two one inch slots across the other plate, crossing in the middle, using dowel pins and countersunk screws to hold the two plates together, with the in slots parked right over the half inch slots, and facing down, and milling half inch slots through to the inch slots, finishing the T slots without a cutter, and without a machine heavy enough to cut T-slots, using only a drill press and x-y table to mill it with. You can use an ordinary 14&1/2 degree spur gear and an acme thread cut to match the pitch diameter, if you don't mind the shaft being at the helix angle of the acme thread. for what it's worth, mad jack |
| Chuck in E. TN:
I actually went to a machine/fab shop and got 4" round, 4" square tube, and 3/8" plate cut. I messed up and ordered the 4" round at 2" thick. I may take it back and see if they can slice it in half...( can they?) I have given thought to the reply from John Hill and I think I will duplicate the nose of my minilathe spindle as the mounting hub to make mounting the lathe face plate, and chucks a snap. Thanks for the inspiration, John. I'm tied up in s few other interuptions at the moment, my lawn tractor deck tore up last night, and more stuff came in for the DRO-550 today. Plus, I just finished the minilathe cross slide travel mod in preparation for turning 4" stock. I also have to make the T-slot cutter per Deans build. Never done anything like that before. Sorry for the slow progress folks. But I will get 'er done! Chuck in E. TN |
| Chuck in E. TN:
I pass a small machine shop daily on the ride to work. I stopped in Friday and had them slice my 4" round in half. Now I have 2ea, 1" thick pieces of 4" round. Got my DRO-550 up and running today, that will help with the table. I'm still thinking on duplicating the nose of my lathe spindle. Chuck in E. TN |
| Chuck in E. TN:
I'm proceeding with a plan to duplicate my lathe spindle from a cast iron flywheel from a treadmill. I have it chucked on the lathe and am trying turn off the fins. I am not having much trouble, but the hhs tool contacting the fins is making a ringing noise. How aggressive should I get turning the fins off? I know its an interrupted cut, and I think I should be using the carriage lock. Any other ideas? Chuck in E. TN |
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