Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge Locomotive

Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

<< < (30/46) > >>

NickG:
Stew, no problem.

I my boiler doesn't have the clack on the side the feed pump pumps to the back right hand clack. The bore of the pump is so small on this engine I don't think it'll take that much energy out of the system. For every reliable injector i've seen i've probably seen 2 unreliable ones but they are nice when they work! The hand pump is a good fail safe, I was going to say I think our club insist on them, but that can't be right because you don't see them on the larger scale models like traction engines.

Nick

sbwhart:
Over the last couple of days I've made the Turret or Manifold to none steam people.

But first to finish off the clacks, the balls need setting down to do this take a new 3/16 stainless ball bearing put it on the seating, and with a brass drift give it a sharp biff with a light hammer, throw the ball away as you've distorted it, replace it with a new one. Now make the cap first measure the depth to the ball and calculate the length of thread required to allow the ball to lift 1/32 ".

Here we are one done No two measured for the cap.

Now for the turret this is made from phos bronze I've bin using calphos which is a leaded bronze that machine very nicely. The body of the turret is made from a length of 3/8" dia material:- drill 1/8 27mm deep and drill and tap 3/16 * 40 ME 5mm deep the body uses a 1/8 steal ball valve for the whistle so the bottom of the 1/8 hole needs to be square and accurately depthed, so I made a flat bottom drill and set it to depth to the chuck face against a steel washer, and just kissed the bottom to bring it to the correct depth.

3/32 hole drilled right through the bottom for the plunger.

Keeping the job on the bar transfer to the mill in spin indexer, and drill the cross holes 3.5mm to locate the fitting for soldering.

Back onto the lathe part off to length flip it round and drill and tap the back end 3/16 * 40 ME

The fitting as there were 4 to make 1/4 * 40 turn up a length of bar enough to make all four and thread it with a die.

The turn up a 2mm long boss for a tight fit on 3.5mm hole drilled in the body part off

repeat repeat repeat.

Then flip them round in a collet:- face centre drill and drill a 3mm hole part way through.

Turn up the other 5/16 fitting

Here they are assembled to the body.

And fluxed with a little nugget of silver solder waiting for some heat.

Again sneak up on it with the heat the flux will go white then black then it will melt more direct heat until the solder melts, pickle for 1/2 hr.

Then set up in the mill and with the aid of the 3mm pilot holes drill through into the body. If you stick a bit of wire down the hole you'll feel/see the drill start to tickle it when it breaks through.

Set the ball down on the seating as for the clacks.

Then make the whistle lever thing sorry this is the only pic I took.

And her we are turret finished.

With the bits made I can now see the best way to fit them on the back head, I think I'm going to black the bush up on the left next to the water gauge and move the boiler feed clack to the top right hand side.

Like this

Cheers

Stew

Bernd:
Lookin' real good there Stew. I like that Manifold. Nice job. :thumbup:

Bernd

Rob.Wilson:
Hi Stew
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: great job making the manifold :thumbup: ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, whats that i see on the end of your vernier ? did you make it ?

Rob

The fire hole door looks like it should be that way :med:

Stilldrillin:
Very nice work, (again), and problems very nicely sorted, Stew! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:

David D

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version