Micro-Mark Mill or Harbor Freight Mill/Drill?

[D_Harris]

I was hoping to get advice from those here who have experience with the Micro-Mark and Harbor Freight Mini lathes and mills.

Several years ago I bought a Micro-Mark Mini-Lathe: http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X14-MINI-LATHE,8176.html

I was originally going to get the lathe's cousin, the Micro-lux Mini-Mill(http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-BENCHTOP-MINI-MILLING-MACHINE-ALL-INCH-MINI-MILL,8102.html) because of the same Tru-Inch dials, metal gears on the spindle shaft, and MT-3 spindle taper.

But I had lucked onto a cheap non-working Harbor Freight Central Machinery Mill/Drill(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44991) on eBay. So therein lies my dilemma.

I was informed that it might be better to pass on the Micro-Mark Mill and instead fix the Harbor Freight Mill/Drill since the R8 tooling is cheaper and I probably wouldn't really need to use the same MT-3 lathe tooling with my mill anyway.

I was also told that I should convert the Harbor Freight Mill/Drill to belt drive, convert the table dials to true inch, and also add an air spring conversion kit.

So any advice on the pros and cons or recommendations for either machine would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren

[Brass_Machine]

I have the HF version of the X2.

As you know, the MM and the HF mills are essentially the same base mill (the X2).

My opinion... Stick with the HF unit. Upgrade to a belt drive (either buy or build), you would want to do this to either machine anyway (MM or HF)... both need it. The R8 spindle is good, esp if you ever plan to get a larger machine, less tooling to buy.

Also, I went the DRO route instead of changing the dials. This way I could jump between metric and imperial at a switch of a button. Also don't have to worry about backlash messing up the readings.

Eric

[Bernd]

Darren,

I switched a Grizzly mini-mill to true inch dials. will someday change to belt drive as the Grizzly has plastic and I've already destroyed one set.

Here's a page on my web site showing how I did it. These machines are just about identical.

http://www.kingstonemodeleng.com/MachineShop/minimill/minimill.htm

Bernd

[D_Harris]

I don't know if the Central Machinery Mill/Drill has metal or plastic gears, but outside of that someone also mentioned that DRO was the way to go because one could switch between inches and metric quickly.(The more I research all the best options, the more expensive this gets). And I still have to research the air spring conversion kit option.

Darren

[75Plus]

Darren,

A key question is, What is wrong with the HF mill. It could turn out to be expensive to get it back into operation.

I have had an HF unit for about a year and am pleased with it so far. I replaced lead screws and dials soon after I got it. It is much easier to operate now. I also added the air lift system mainly to increase the "Z" axis travel. This additional travel is a MUST if you are using R-8 collets as tool holders. Otherwise you run out of travel before you reach the work piece. I got both conversion kits from The Little Machine Shop but the last time I looked they were not offering the lead screw kit.

Either way you decide there is pleasure in your future. 

Joe

[D_Harris]

Darren,

A key question is, What is wrong with the HF mill. It could turn out to be expensive to get it back into operation.

I have had an HF unit for about a year and am pleased with it so far. I replaced lead screws and dials soon after I got it. It is much easier to operate now. I also added the air lift system mainly to increase the "Z" axis travel. This additional travel is a MUST if you are using R-8 collets as tool holders. Otherwise you run out of travel before you reach the work piece. I got both conversion kits from The Little Machine Shop but the last time I looked they were not offering the lead screw kit.

Either way you decide there is pleasure in your future. 

Joe

I don't know what it'll cost to fix, but I figure less than a whole new Mill/Drill.

DRO is too expensive. But the air spring kit is the priority:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2258&category=

And this is so that the Mill/Drill will match the M.M. lathe's "tru inch" dials:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1764&category=

Third is the belt drive kit:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2560&category=

BTW, why would a "lead screw kit" for the Mill/Drill be important?

So outside of figuring out what kind of indexing rotary table I'd need to get the most out of this machine, I have to determine what basic tooling I'll need.

Thanks.

Darren

[techonehundred]

Check Micromark again.  They have just started selling the SX2 mill and the new Lathe which is now 7 x 16.  Both of these now have Brushless motors and belt Drive.  Also, the Micromark Mill has the R-8 spindle.  Just food for thought.

[D_Harris]

Yes, I saw that.

I was wondering if I should post a comparison and ask for feedback on whether I should sell my unused 7" x 14" and buy the 7" x 16". 

The bottom line is that even though it is not yet working, I have a Mill/Drill.

As for the lathe...

The 7" x 16" has two more inches capacity than the the 7" x 14".
The 7" x 16" is 38" long. The 7" x 14" is 35" long.
The 7" x 16" doesn't have digital read-out for spindle speed like the 7" x 14".
The 7" x 16" has a 500 watt brush-less motor which is .067hp Vs. the 0.47 for the 7" x 14".
The 7" x 16" spindle speed is between 0 and 2,500 rpm, and the 7" x 14" spindle speed is between 100 and 3,000 rpm.
The 7" x 16" has a belt drive. And the 7" x 14" has metal gears.
The 7" x 16" is four pounds lighter than the 7" x 14".(Which is not necessarily a good thing).

Darren

[winklmj]

I'm not planning on dumping my 7x14 just to get a 7x16 but I'd consider it if I were buying new.

How much you want for the 7x14?

[D_Harris]

I have no idea. I don't have a good reason to sell it and get the 7" x 16".

It's only two inches, and I don't know if the 500w motor is of any real advantage since it's probably easy to initiate chatter with the 350w as is in the 7" x 14", which is a little heavier than the 7" x 16". Changing to a belt drive would be relatively cheap if I needed to do that. And I like the idea of having a digital read-out for spindle speed.

Darren