Gallery, Projects and General > How to's

Electrical Demagnetizer

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andyf:
For small items like Allen keys and drills, I just pass them though the loop of a Weller soldering gun. Get them some distance away before releasing the trigger. Same with screwdrivers, though they have to be dipped in and out because the handle won't go through the loop.

And the loop is hot, of course, so watch your fingers.

Andy

websterz:
I regularly make small batches (50 or so) parts out of 4140. After hardening and surface grinding them there is always some residual magnetism in them. I bought a 4x6 surface demag'er from Enco planning to spread the parts out on a thin piece of card stock and treating a whole batch at a time. Plus it will be big enough to do drills, hand tools, etc. Just under $40 with free shipping. Cheaper than scrapping my microwave I guess... :dremel:

Krown Kustoms:
Nice utilization of scavenged parts.
I love seeing something so simple turned in to a tool.

So......are you using the bulb as a fuse/circuit breaker? I see it as a good indicator of a 'dead' short but are you going to utilize it in the perminant fixture?
A small neon bulb and a fuse would also act as a indicator to tell you if it was on or not.

I am already looking for a small transformer to build this 'need to have' tool.

Thanks for the idea. -B-

75Plus:
I have an old bulk tape eraser from the 4 and 8 track days that does a good job of erasing the magnetism from tools and small parts. It also doubled as a degausser for the earlier color tv's that did not have automatic degaussing.

Joe

Weston Bye:
Where I work one of the maintenance technicians came to me with a steel detail that kept picking up magnetism causing the steel parts that it was supposed to guide to stick and not flow smoothly.  I made a quick demagnetizer from an automotive air conditioner clutch coil and a 12 volt, 3 amp transformer.  This was convenient because we make the coils.  The coil is a freestanding bonded coil, no bobbin or other supporting structure.  The nice thing about the coil-transformer arrangement is the low operating voltage.  The coil does get warm, but can be left on indefinitely without damage - after all, it was designed to survive the +140°C environment of the engine compartment.  Also, the coil has a large bore, allowing large or wide parts to be demagnetized.

If one were to be salvaged from an A/C clutch, the steel shell would have to be removed; carefully machined away on the lathe, mill or with a Dremel.

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