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| A Grooving Problem |
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| 75Plus:
Here is a part that I am making but with much difficulty. Cutting the grooves is my problem. The slot width is 0.035" and the depth is 0.030". Currently using a Dremel rotary cutter that I thin down from approximately 0.052" to the 0.035" needed. If I am lucky I can get half a dozen parts from each cutter. Any suggestions? BTW the corners of the recessed area have a 1/2" radius. Joe |
| rleete:
Better saws. Dremel accessories aren't the best quality, and aren't really made for cutting stainless. Try MSC, Enco or such for the blades. Coolant would probably help extend the life as well. |
| Bernd:
Joe, Roger has a good point with better saws from the manufactures he mentioned. ANother way would be a shaper action and tool ground to do that. Bernd |
| 75Plus:
I forgot to mention that the over all inside width is only 0.875". I just looked at the Enco catalog and see that have a 3/4" dia. X 3/64" wide Woodruff cutter that I could thin to 0.035". I will have to give that a try. These parts could help fund my hobby if I can work out the production problems. I do use coolant with the Dremel cutter. Otherwise they will only last for a couple of pieces. Joe |
| 75Plus:
Just a note as to how this project is going, I purchased a 3/64" (1.2mm) keyway cutter made by a US company in business since 1957. I chucked it up and, using a tool post grinder, thinned it by 0.010" leaving it 0.037" wide. It worked fine for about an hour then the saw separated from the shank. This cutter was said to be made from one piece. Upon inspection I found a 0.021" deep counter bore in the saw which was on the SHANK side. This left only 0.016" of metal to drive the saw after I thinned it. There was only about 0.025" before my modification. My question to the manufacturer was, Why the counter bore and how was it done on the shank side of the saw which was a one piece unit? I am awaiting an answer. This is what I have now. This is a close-up of the counter bored saw. Whatcha think? :med: :med: Joe |
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