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| PTsideshow:
Hardener Candle hardener is a synthetic wax which has a melting point of around 90 degrees C. Because of its high melting point it is a very hard wax. Adding a small quantity (usually only 1 part hardener to 100 parts wax) to moulded candles tends to make them harder and possibly last longer. It also makes the surface of the candle shinier and makes the candle more cloudy and opaque. Dipping tapers in wax containing hardener helps prevent dripping by putting a harder outer shell on the taper wick acts as a ‘cup’ for the liquid wax when the candle is burning. Because of its high melting point it is best to melt hardener with a small quantity of wax before adding it to other pots of candle wax. Plasticiser Plasticiser is also a synthetic material which like hardener has a high melting point. Because of this it is best to melt plasticiser separately with some wax before adding it to other pots of candle wax. It makes the wax go more pliable at temperatures just below its melting point and makes it thicker once melted. For this reason it is good for sculpturing effects where you want the wax to be less brittle. It is also used in dip and carve candles as it allow the successive wax layers of the candle to be cut and twisted while still warm. You also can use Micro-crystalline wax, Micro-crystalline waxes are excellent materials to use when modifying the crystalline properties of paraffin wax. The microcrystalline wax has a significant effect on the branching of the carbon chains that are the backbone of paraffin wax. This is useful when some desired functional changes in the paraffin are needed, such as flexibility, higher melt point, and increased opacity. And John beat me to it about chopping up the LDPE bags into smaller sizes. :thumbup: |
| AdeV:
Thanks for the hints & tips chaps, always appreciated :thumbup: I think the second batch went faster because, after all the bags melted into a congealed blob, I picked it up & allowed it to droop off the screwdriver/stirrer a few times, which I think effectively increased the surface area. At least, it dissolved very quickly after that. The first batch, I added 2-3 bags, let them dissolve, added 2-3 more, rinse & repeat; I think that's why it took so long. John - did the harder stuff machine better than your home-made stuff? If so, I'll get some hardener, it seems to be cheap enough. I'm guessing there's already some in there mind, as these are commercial candles (same as yours). |
| John Stevenson:
Doing the thumbnail test the bought stuff is noticeably harder but we were making loco wheels about 80mm diameter and all the spokes were coming out nice. Oh one thing keep this stuff sealed up we now have loco wheels with missing spokes, the mice like this gear :jaw: John s. |
| AdeV:
Well, tonight was the acid test. And, wow. I am impressed. This stuff is LOVELY to machine - and that's my crappy 1st batch, not the super-smooth looking 2nd batch... As always, lots of photos for you to download - the film is free after all :) First up, I rig a really dodgy contraption out of newspaper and welding rod, to catch the bits. These first cuts are quite hefty, and since the whole idea of this wax is it's reusable, it seems a shame to have to pick it up off the floor later. Especially as the floor is covered in tiny bits of aluminium, steel, WD40 and other nasties: As you can see, the corner is snapped off. That was where I did the "how much pressure will this stuff take in the bench vice" test. The answer is: Not a hell of a lot... Ready to machine now. 20mm end-mill in place, 1500rpm, maximum feed rate (dunno, rather swift anyway). Shortly: I tried it in the bandsaw, it cut nicely & didn't clog the blade. Roughed out a rectangular piece, lobbed it in the vice, and got with squaring it up: The wax machines very nicely indeed - and, as could be expected, without any of the aggro of metal. No chatter, no coolant required. The end mill stayed clear throughout. I did chip a corner at one point, but I didn't notice when. So basically, I just tried a selection of tooling on it: - 50mm carbide-tipped shell mill (successful, no clogging) - 3/4" end mill, blunt (seen above) - cut nicely, very smooth finish. Maybe because it's blunt? No clogging - 6mm and 3mm ball-end mills (again, success with no clogging. Drove the 3mm at 4600rpm, high feedrate, no problem - 1/8" radius cutter - easy peasy - 2" slitting saw on home-made arbor, running at a ferocious 550rpm. Cut very well, with a tiny amount of clogging on some teeth, probably running it a touch quick. - Wrote on it with a Sharpie marker. It even took that, although it was smudgable for some time afterwards Anyway, the end result can be seen below: I am well made up with this wax stuff. It's quite fragile, especially the fine details (I accidentally broke 2 of the fins shortly after taking the last photo), but it holds its own really well. It's definitely going to be useful in prototyping this sump - and many parts yet to come. One happy camper, check. :thumbup: |
| John Stevenson:
--- Quote from: AdeV on February 15, 2010, 04:14:01 PM --- The wax machines very nicely indeed - and, as could be expected, without any of the aggro of metal. No chatter, no coolant required. The end mill stayed clear throughout. I did chip a corner at one point, but I didn't notice when. --- End quote --- It will chip as you exit a cut, if doing a slot try cutting from both ends so it's supported in the middle where the two cuts meet. A lot of plastics are like this Tufnol is an absolute bastard unless you have a sacrificial piece on the exit. John S. |
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