BMW V8 dry sump from billet

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AdeV:
Dave - I can't come out of the front of the sump with the pipework as pictured, because there's not enough room in front to fit the pipework. Even if I move the fittings as far back as possible, I'd still struggle to turn the pipes - the rubber hosing has a 25mm OD, and is not particularly flexible.

Ralph - I must have been unclear in my original post.... On the photo I posted above, the black shaded areas represent the original drill holes, which have been plugged to depth with a single piece of ali (locktited or shrink-fitted into place). Then: each sideways hole is drilled to meet its corresponding longways hole; so looking from the front, the nearest cross hole is drilled through two plugs to meet the left-most hole.

In other words pretty much as you describe, except it hadn't occurred to me to pin it as well.

For the Loctite, any suggestions? I'd wondered about 5399, which will take the temperature, but may not be the most suitable adhesive?

AdeV:
Here's a c-o-c describing the plan I have in mind to turn the sump holes:

My writing is unintelligble at the best of times, so to save you struggling:

1) Drill main drain holes to full depth (i.e. as far as they need go).

2) Turn up 3 plugs, of the correct length, which will be fitted in the end of the holes. So, the first plug is the shortest, the last plug is the longest. Each is either an interference (heat) fit, or loctite, whichever is the most sensible.

3) Once the loctite has cured, or the sump has cooled down to the point it can be handled again, I can mount it up & cross-drill the holes - through the plugs (for the outer two holes)

4) (not shown) I'll turn a thread into the end of the cross-drilled holes, turn up some hose barbs, and screw them in using loctite to make sure they stay put.

Any thoughts? In particular, I'd welcome recommendations on which loctite to use, I think I have datasheet fatigue already...

Artie:
Ade I cant see a problem with this method. Looking forward to seeing the unit in ali. Good to see someone thinking outside the box. Well done mate.

Artie

John Stevenson:
I use high strength bearing fit for everything, it's kept Gert's knickers up for the last 8 years.

John S.

AdeV:
Right, a quick spell in the workshop over lunchtime (working right next to the shop is great, but a terrible distraction :poke:)...

First, hack off a piece of ali with my test hole in it. The pipe shown with it is a really nice snug "tap fit", so I'll make my ali piece about 0.001" bigger than it:

First, bung the main piece in the toaster oven, set to 265oC, and leave until golden brown.

Next, turn up the plug. I'm using the same bit I made my drawbar spacer from. This has a 1/2" hole all the way through it, so when the heat fit is done, that'll probably end up a touch crushed. But that's not a problem, the object of this exercise is to practice heat shrink fitting:

Once exactly 0.634" is achieved, according to the micrometer, the piece is ready. First, check to make sure it won't go into the cold hole, by checking against the part i didn't hack off.

And, sure enough, absolutely no chance of that going in there, it simply will not fit (although, in fairness, I didn't try battering it with a hammer). So, into the freezer with the part, and wait a little while. About 15 mins, 'cos I'm impatient.

Finally, remove the receiver from the oven & clamp in a vice. Remove the plug from the freezer, align it with the hole, and wallop it with the Plastic Hammer of Destiny. And lo, it came to pass:

:D

When it's all cooled down a bit, I'll hack off the disc & do a bit of trial machining work to see how it all holds up.

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