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BMW V8 dry sump from billet |
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Artie:
Gday mate, cant soft solder either BUT, this is the vacuum pick up? No pressure, cars have used screw in plugs for decades in oil gallery's under full pressure, that V8 will have some somewhere if you removed the bell housing or front covers. Screw thread and lock tite would work well. If it comes to that, a press fit core plug WOULD do it.. but I'd prefer a thread myself. Or you could have it welded..... And ... great work Ade, if the final product looks anything like the wax, it sure to be a 'winner'... :whip: :headbang: :wave: As an aside why cant you LIMIT the depth of each drill hole so that it only goes as far as it needs to be picked up by the 90 degree drilled cross holes? No holes to plug at all then. Simply a case of measuring and marking the drill bit before each hole. |
AdeV:
Cheers Artie - yes, this is on the vacuum side, the main thing is that the suction doesn't pull the fitting out, causing all kinds of pain. I was just reading about aluminium & it's solderability. This alloy is 5082 (aka N8) - turns out that's considered "unsolderable" due to its magnesium content. Doh.... So, I guess I'll look at shrink fitting the long "core" plugs, and using a screw fitting + loctite for the pipework. --- Quote ---As an aside why cant you LIMIT the depth of each drill hole so that it only goes as far as it needs to be picked up by the 90 degree drilled cross holes? No holes to plug at all then. Simply a case of measuring and marking the drill bit before each hole. --- End quote --- Because I drill from the front of the sump, ALL of the holes pass through the fitting region. I could do the holes from the back, and just make a bolt-on piece to block the back of the holes; but then I'd have to drill all three holes to full depth (560mm); at the moment, only one needs to go long (470mm), each of the others is about 100mm shorter. |
Artie:
Believe it or not I was just in the 'bathroom' when I realised that and raced back in to delete the 'stoopid', but you beat me... You can buy screw in plugs that are quite narrow with a allen key head for just this application. They are steel and with the right loctite, they will never see the light of day again. Good luck mate. |
DMIOM:
Ade, if the sole reason for the shenanigans is to get better spacing for the screw-in terminal fittings, how about plugging the last bit where the entry hole is and then drilling in again on an angle? ( C-o-C below). If that then doesn't leave enough for the thread, you could always mill a small flat at the entry point as a sort of counter-bore. This way you only need two, long, plugs. Also, if the drillings are too close to the surface for comfort, you could also make the new entry holes a little nearer the block ... Dave |
Divided he ad:
Hi Ade, I've been reading your thread for a week or so and just kind of caught up :coffee: Not really had much to add, quite an engineering feat you've taken on..... Well out of my scope! Anyway, I was just reading about the above crossdrill and plug issue and was thinking what about plugging the holes before you crossdrill in to the main oil ways..... If you do this then you can loctite (or whatever pipe sealant you have) aluminium plugs into the holes and even drill and pin (roll pin,home made plugs/pins, screw or bolt) them into position through the main block. Leave for a day or whatever before drilling and they will be all fixed into position and sealed. If it's pinned as well it'll never come out, it simply couldn't spin on the pin (that's if you only use one per plug) due to side wall thickness and shape. Loctite stuffs are very strong and withstand a huge range of heats (they fix huge train wheels on with the stuff you know!!! Ask Stew.) you just have to buy the correct one for the application! If I'm not making sense then C-o-C's can be rendered..... But I think you'll get what I mean? Just thinking in text :thumbup: Ralph. |
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