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| BMW V8 dry sump from billet |
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| madjackghengis:
Hi Ade, I've been following your log on the sump from the beginning, and while it is not exactly related to anything I'm doing myself right now, your work has certainly been intriguing and informative, demonstrating how much that can be done if one does not follow the petty recommendations of teachers and instructors, as to limits of equipment and machines. My one big question is related to the taps you are removing with the use of nitric acid. I don't seem to be able to find the point at which you broke them, and needed them removed. It's a minor matter, and I am interested in the concentration of the acid, as I remove broken taps on a regular basis, but I am in the dark still on when the calamity occured. I am very interested in the success of your acid method of removing them, as I've never used that method, but if it works well, would add it to my tool kit, but the missing link, the breakage, and how it occured would be of interest as well. You've definitely shown the possibilities of working beyond the advertised limits of the machine, and have turned out a fine piece of work, particularly considering the constant set ups, and tear downs necessary. :thumbup: :beer: mad jack |
| AdeV:
--- Quote from: madjackghengis on August 19, 2010, 11:31:03 AM ---Hi Ade, I've been following your log on the sump from the beginning, and while it is not exactly related to anything I'm doing myself right now, your work has certainly been intriguing and informative, demonstrating how much that can be done if one does not follow the petty recommendations of teachers and instructors, as to limits of equipment and machines. --- End quote --- Thanks Jack - I guess it helps that I don't have any teachers (other than the readers & contributors to this forum, who are usually too late to warn me of the dangers on account I've already done it...), so as far as I can tell, if I can physically fit it on the machine, then it must be possible.... --- Quote ---My one big question is related to the taps you are removing with the use of nitric acid. I don't seem to be able to find the point at which you broke them, and needed them removed. It's a minor matter, and I am interested in the concentration of the acid, as I remove broken taps on a regular basis, but I am in the dark still on when the calamity occured. --- End quote --- Oops, I see I didn't write up what I was trying to do, at least on this thread... Basically, having plugged the end holes with the specific-length plugs, I then set up to drill into the side. I drilled the first hole, and everything went well. But when I drilled the second hole, the end of the long plug (which I drilled through) came loose, and migrated into the first hole, effectively blocking it. Here's a couple of C-o-Cs: The hatched areas represent the plugs, the shaded the holes. This is the view looking down from the top. I drilled the left-most hole first, then the middle hole; that's when this happened: Using a piece of welding rod, I managed to shove the plug piece back to where it should be, I then decided to drill into the plugs, tap them, and screw in a length of threaded rod, the idea being this would hold each plug section in place - both while I drilled the final hole, and also in service. The plugs don't have to be 100% oil tight internally, "near enough" will do - although the outer bungs DO need to be oil tight, otherwise leaks will ensue. Fortunately, the outer bungs will be easy to replace & re-glue if required. --- Quote --- I am very interested in the success of your acid method of removing them, as I've never used that method, but if it works well, would add it to my tool kit, --- End quote --- Well, my experience so far would suggest it's viable IF you can wait the requisite days (weeks) it's taking... I'm not too fussed about the timescale, since I've got other projects I can get on with. If this were a production system, I'd have drilled the buggers out by now... The acid I'm using is, to the best of my knowledge, 78% concentrated - i.e. white fuming nitric acid - not the red stuff that Lew mentions. I don't believe it's possible to buy more concentrated stuff "over the counter". It requires hand protection & breathing protection when in use, and common sense and a fully heightened sense of caution goes a long way towards using the stuff safely. --- Quote --- You've definitely shown the possibilities of working beyond the advertised limits of the machine, and have turned out a fine piece of work, particularly considering the constant set ups, and tear downs necessary. :thumbup: :beer: --- End quote --- Much appreciated, thanks :) As I say, ignorance (in this case, of the limits of the machine) is a great help... |
| madjackghengis:
Hi Ade, I appreciate the answers, you've cleared up what I have up to now, just assumed, and I fully understand your difficulties with plugs, having done similar jobs, and had to tie up loose plugs before. If you are following my build on the radial engine, I removed a number of #4 taps physically, and had one I ended up milling out a pocket, pulling out the pieces, and tigging it back up, and had I known about the acid, I would have allowed the time and etched it out, as I still don't like the reminder the weld lines give me of that broken tap. On larger taps, I'm accustomed to being successful getting them out welding nuts of larger sizes to them, or using a make-shift EDM set up, because I'm too lazy to jump to the EDM project I haven't got to yet, but using acid would definitely be the easy way, from the sound of it. I'm looking forward to seeing the sump on an engine, and it running, hopefully soon. :nrocks: :thumbup: mad jack |
| Powder Keg:
This is a great thread AdeV. I just got done reading the whole thing :loco: You are doing a great job!!! I like seeing people push machines to their limits and beyond! Any updates :wave: |
| MattTheHat:
You, sir, have balls the size of church bells! Amazing stuff, Ade. -Matt |
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