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NickG:
Thanks Stew, I will try clocking table and vice. You're right it might be pushing up as when I rest something on parallels and tighten up the parallel sometimes becomes looser - exactly what you said.

I don't know how I would attach the bush at the moment, I may have to mill a flat and make a square brass block with thread in it that bolts down to the vice? Will have to get it properly to bits to see.

That's the only problem Jim - I don't want to be spending time repairing things but if it saves £60 and a good vice it might have to be done. That £60 could go towards a rotary table or QCTP!

Will strip down vice tonight so I can see what it's like then decide whether or not to attempt a repair!

Nick

sbwhart:
Her we go Nick my vice pics showing the brass nut

The end nearest the moving jaw has a flange on it to take the thrust.

Your next problem is the thread size if its not a standard size you can get a tap for you'll have to screw cut it.

Hope this helps

Stew

madjackghengis:

--- Quote from: NickG on March 07, 2010, 05:31:51 PM ---A little more progress - not as much as I would of liked, but a little.

I got the crankshafts just about done.

I thought I'd be clever and try making a 'D' bit out of a bit of the silver steel that would become the crankshaft - that way I could accurately size the holes in the crank webs etc and flywheel bosses.

Here it is:

Later found out that didn't work though, think I must have milled just too much off as the D part went into the hole I had drilled too easily. So I used a number drill instead.

Milling a square end on the bar:

Milling down to correct thickness:

Setup for milling webs to length - this didn't work so had to do 1 at a time and mill across the vice at same height setting in end:

Setup for drilling holes:

Pair of cranks with loctite curing before I cut out centre section of main shaft:

--- End quote ---
Hi Nick, just a thought, if you want to mill your multiple pieces at one time, and have it work out, try putting a piece of paper between the movable jaw and the pieces, and then set them up square. The paper will compress, and equalize the pressure on the four bars, and they will not move. Even rather rough bars can be machined at the same time if you use a heavy brown paper rather than light notebook paper, as I would with pieces all cut out of one bar that is fairly smooth in finish. For what its worth, mad jack :beer:

NickG:
Stew,

Thanks for that - I think I will have to screw cut as I think it's a square ish thread. I was going to investigate further tonight but the wife has just informed me it's stay in, film night tonight! :doh: think that was my idea so I can't disagree!

Madjack, thanks for that tip - i've tried to mill like that on a couple of occasions now without success. Hopefully the little paper trick should work - it sounds logical.

Nick

madjackghengis:

--- Quote from: NickG on March 08, 2010, 04:44:26 AM ---PS, I forgot to mention - I will try making a D bit again at some point, I just need to pay more attention to the amount milled off. I just touched on and used the quill dro but that obviously wasn't accurate enough and took too much off or something.

Nick

--- End quote ---
Hi Nick, with regard to D bits, they are best made just as you describe, touching off and then using the down feed read out, however stop short of half and leave at least four or five thousandths for hand finishing, on a stone and lapping, and you can mic it out as you are doing the final lap, hopefully on a diamond lap. I've found a proper D bit gives a more accurate hole size than even a comercial reamer, unless you are absolutely perfect in your handling of the comercial reamer. No matter where it is, a single cutting edge always is more accurate than multiple cutting edges, it's just a matter of means of handling. For what it's worth, mad jack :headbang:

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