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| madjackghengis:
Hi Nick, I've often chucked on threads with the exact notion you mentioned, but have used the opportunity to use greater clamping force on account of having less clamping area for the force to spread over. This actually insets the chuck jaws into self-made pockets, and if you don't get them drawn out, they are more secure and will carry more torque. With such overhang though, it is best to use a tailstock center while using the cutoff tool, and if possible, drill the center hole first, so the blade will run into air, and not an increasingly straight cut. When I get close to the end of the cut, I back out the tailstock center just a hair, enough so it still turns with the work, but will slip a bit when pressure of the tool is backed off. It can also make a big difference with steel if you use a bench grinder and grind a slight hollow in the top of the cutoff blade, so there are a couple of degrees of positive back rake in the tool. I always sharpen my high speed tools with a grinder and finish the job with a diamond lap, lapping each surface that gets contact. It can make all the difference in the world. I'm glad to see you making good progress, and watching close so my build will be easier. For this I thank you. Mad Jack :beer: |
| NickG:
Madjack, Thanks for the advice. I had already done as you had mentioned on the parting blade but the rest I will have to put down to experience! Unfortunately I've picked up some vomiting bug on monday and today is the first day I've started feeling ok. Only kept down 2 slices of toast and 1/2 bag of crisps in the last 48 hours, touch wood it's going to stay down and I'll be able to get back in the garage tomorrow (thurs) night. Nick |
| jim:
--- Quote from: NickG on February 17, 2010, 06:27:49 AM ---Madjack, Thanks for the advice. I had already done as you had mentioned on the parting blade but the rest I will have to put down to experience! Unfortunately I've picked up some vomiting bug on monday and today is the first day I've started feeling ok. Only kept down 2 slices of toast and 1/2 bag of crisps in the last 48 hours, touch wood it's going to stay down and I'll be able to get back in the garage tomorrow (thurs) night. Nick --- End quote --- hope you are felling better :thumbup: |
| NickG:
Thanks, Jim I'd say I'm back to 95% now, not sure what the 95% is of but nevertheless, feeling a lot better. I’ve finally got my self back into the garage for a couple of hours and made a little progress. Things seem to keep getting in the way of this project. I started by facing all the flywheel blanks to about 10 thou over thickness to leave a little to skim at the end. Seeing as though I have a few of each part to do I am trying to do a sort of mini production line on this job, completing operations rather than the part. So I left the lathe saddle where it was and faced across each blank. They came out within a few thou of each other so I scribbled the sizes on so I knew how much to take off on the next operations. I then centre drilled one of the blanks and drilled out to 5/16” hole ready to turn the recess. I thought I’d be able to do this with my standard carbide tool that I now seem to be able to use for most jobs! After struggling on for about 10 mins I got a 20 thou deep recess that my 1 year old son could have chewed out better with his few teeth! The tool just didn’t have the right clearances, I don’t know why I thought I’d get away with it, it was just rubbing far too much everywhere. So I decided to take a step back and think about it for a few seconds, then grind an HSS tool just for the job. This sketch shows the angles I ground it to: This now worked an absolute tread, was very pleased with myself! Don’t know why but it was satisfying to watch it cut, I could cut 30 thou at a time with no chatter or anything. So I quickly turned the recesses on a couple of the flywheels, then got a bit tired and bored and came in. It took little time to do though so not worried about that now. Here is a pic showing 2 flywheels, 1 has a larger recess in 1 side to clear the cam and roller. It is only now that I realise how light these flywheels are and probably one of the reasons poppin runs so fast. There are 4 9/16” lightening holes called for on the drawings but I’m going to go for 6 smaller holes as I can use the 3 jaws of the chuck to divide those. I will probably turn up a mandrel to mount on in the milling machine and drill in the same way I did the cylinder holes. Should be really quick to spot them all with centre drill then open up that way. I won’t be getting much more done on this in the coming days – family do tomorrow, might get a bit done sun night but then away with work until thurs night when I should hopefully pick it back up. Might go for the crankshafts for a change after these flywheels are sorted. Nick |
| Dean W:
Glad to see you back in the shop! Sometimes tool clearances just give me fits. I do most of my own tool grinding, and now and then, I just have get a piece of paper, draw a circle and a center spot on it, and put my tool blank up against it to check it out. Looks like you had a similar idea and got the job done it good fashion. That's a fair amount of metal removal for one sitting, unless you have a large machine. Good job, Nick. Dean |
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