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Bad Indicator Lamp?

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Bernd:

--- Quote from: dsquire on January 29, 2010, 05:19:16 PM ---Anybody with any comments on this good or bad gladly accepted. I know I'm going to hear from Bernd on this one.

Cheers  :beer:

Don

--- End quote ---

Well it looks like I got beat to the answer already. They have given go advice Don.  :thumbup:


I do have to say one thing tough, those deep fried foods will surely end your machining carer in a hurry if it plugs up the pipes.

Oh, one thing does come to mind. I don't believe that a neon bulb like that would burn out. So check for a broken or loose wire in the circuit. Does the light just show that the power is on or does it go out when the oil is up to temprature?

I need to check in these bulbs a bit more. I used to play with them when I made flash circuits such as used in camera flashes.

Bernd

dsquire:
Thanks John and CrewCab for your comments, they all help.

Well it wasn't the neon lamp. As John, Crew Cab and Bernd pointed out that is in parallel and only indicates power on or off when the oil is up to temperature. As it turns out, it is OK but dosen't have any function with the pot heating up other than to tell you the power is on.

I did find one other piece hidden inside a woven insulating sleeve that is in series. I am not sure what it is called but my guess is a thermosistor (sp). It is about 4mm dia x 10mm long and is a shiny metal case. On one end of this is a blue cone shaped nose. The wire leads running into the ends are both about 1mm dia. The writing on this baby is as follows.

PAT     K
MICROTEMP
4372 A
AJBSU 192C

When I put the Ohm meter across the leads with it out of the circuit there is no reading one way and just the smallest needle deflection when reversed. I believe that this is where the problem lies. I had a coffee percolator many years ago that had the same problem and worked like new when I replaced the thermosistor.

While trying to get this thermosistor out of the circuit I tried to remove a nut that was on a steel stud that was spot welded to the aluminum pot. Yes Aluminum to Steel. I checked it with a magnet. Anyway, the stud broke off and that is where the switch was mounted. Since part of the switch is a bi-metal contact it has to be mounted that close to the aluminum pot to work properly.

So at the end of the day I have to table littered with pots and pieces and tools and don't have a pot to put chips in. I guess I'll just have to break down and buy one of the new ones.

I tried last night to take a picture of the small part that I have just been talking about and no luck whatsoever. I finally had to quit that before I put the camera into orbit. I'm going to have to find my camera manuals and figure that out. Here I am telling all the new members that we need pictures and I can't even produce one myself.

Bernd
I'm hoping that eating deep fried foods won't do me in. So far heart and arteries all seem to check out OK. Now the lungs, thats another story. I have COPD and my best friend and allways close companion is 6mm dia air line hooked to an oxygen tank or concentrator 24/7.
   
Thanks for all the help guys, it is appreciated.    :D :D

Cheers  :beer:

Don

Bluechip:
Don

That little doins is probably a thermal fuse ....

192C ? Maybe 192 deg. Celsius ?

In Derbyshire speak ... worrabirtthissun then ?

http://cpc.farnell.com/thermodisc/g4a01192c/fuse-thermal-w-e-192c/dp/FF01031

Happy sizzlin ..

EDIT If it is one, and you replace it .. it is a THERMAL fuse  er ... not to be SOLDERED, usually crimped  ...

Thought I'd mention it ...  :D

Dave BC

dsquire:
Dave

Thanks for the comeback. I went and looked at the picture of the thermodisk and it is exactly like the one in my unit that I described in my last post above.  :ddb: :ddb:

Cheers Dave  :beer:

Don

Bluechip:
Don

Have a quick look at the edit   ... I've seen it done !

Lots of 'em used in power electronics, often on heatsinks ..

Also verify current rating for your kit, some only carry lowish currents ie 3A or so. Others up to about 20A IIRC

Dave BC

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