The Shop > Tools
The Sajo mill is here
Trion:
Thanks for the kind words :wave:
If you'd have seen my car, you would know that I like things to be nice and shiny, but it takes time. For now I have set my priorities on making some chips :dremel:
DICKEYBIRD: ctctools looks to be a very reasonably priced place to buy things for a home shop. I am already drooling on the BT 40 - ER32 chuck, but I also noticed that they have MT3 and MT2 chucks for collets aswell. Conveniently my lathe tailstock is MT2 and the spindle has a taper reducer to MT3. It would be a good step in the direction of interchangeability between the machines. I see a "poor mans lathe collet chuck" coming up on the horizon!
When you get around to measure the runout of the collets, I would really appreciate if you would share that information :wave:
Space Fan: "spot and glaze puty" - I googled it, is it the same as what one uses for cars? Not filler, but what's used for deeper dents? In my experience it is weak and brittle, didn't think it would survive on a machine in use, or am I wrong? :scratch:
Bernd:
Trion,
In the place I used to work they had a paint shop for painting the machines for the customers. They used the that stuff to fill in bad spots on the machine. Then sand it smooth and paint over. You just need to make sure that there is no oil or any kind of dirt were you are going to put it. It's the same procedure as would be used on a car body. Metal is metal the putty dosen't know any difference.
I'm sure Space Fan will chime in and bring the finer points to the forfront.
Bernd
Trion:
Well, then my assumptions were wrong. Will have to try out the putty when the day to begin a proper restoration comes. Thanks for the quick reply :thumbup:
Minor update today, had nearly two hours of shop time, so I decided to finish the hand wheel for the fine feed mechanism. I have had some time to plunder about how I want it to look, and I decided for paralell angled surfaces, and a flat on which I can drill a hole and mount a small handle on a later occasion. So of it went..
Bearing in mind that I'm still very new to turning aswell, i tried turning the outer surface in the same setup, and had thought to just flip it over and cut the rest of afterwards. But that would have looked bad, I wanted one clean cut on the outer surface, so I mounted it on its mounting shaft
Just by using some washer and a M8 bolt
Not the best assembly, regarding cylindricity or wobbling. As you can see, the tailstock center is far of center on the bolt
But it got me going, so I ended up with this. The edge between the angled surface and the flat looks a bit ugly, but I couldn't come up with an easy solution to rounden the edge without damaging any of the other surfaces..
The rear surface, with the same angle as the front
All assembled :D
It is a bit too smooth, I might do something about it when I have the mill running. But for now, it's ok!
On another note, it might be a bit small. I'll have to see how it feels, when I begin actually using the machine ::)
Space Fan:
--- Quote from: Trion on February 08, 2010, 11:16:16 AM ---
Space Fan: "spot and glaze puty" - I googled it, is it the same as what one uses for cars? Not filler, but what's used for deeper dents? In my experience it is weak and brittle, didn't think it would survive on a machine in use, or am I wrong? :scratch:
--- End quote ---
Trion,
Yes any quick drying surface repair product for automotive will work. It should hold up under use as it'll be locked in by paint. Proper surface prep is all that is needed. In fact, many machines are slathered in the stuff right up to the ground surfaces. Makes for a nice smooth look.
But this mill you have would look great covered in swarf and coolant! Paint and finish is a lesser concern I'm sure.
Great work on the refit!
Barry
Trion:
Space Fan: I would never have thought that! Will have to give it a try sometime, maybe on the sprare vertical head? hmm :scratch:
Yesterday I stated on making the quill handle :)
I decided to make this in steel, as I want it to last and be able to take a bit of abuse. So gatheret a couple of suiting pieces, and drew up a small sketch
Mounted the fortunate piece in the lathe, and roughed of a bit of material. The chip breaker on my inserts (which i believe are made for a milling cutter) is practically absent, but I liked the color of the swarf
Some finishing cuts later
Then I made the internal hole, before i removed it from the chuck and went to see if my measurement were correct. Ofcourse they weren't, so I would have ended up with a pretty hard press fit if I were to do it this way.
So out came the 4 jaw.I got tired of turning the jaws in and out, so I got myself some help
Then aligned the piece in the chuck
before I opened up the internal diameter with a very light cut with an internal HSS tool
Well pleased with the result, I moved on, and turned the part around. This time it was hard to get the DI shaft down to the workpiece, so I mounted an elongation. A bit of back and forth, before I ended up with a couple of hundreds millimeters runout
Turned down the other piece, but got greedy and ended up braking a couple of tips of my carbides on the edge made by the water jet
I decided to make the handle similar to the locking handle on the other side of the head, so I gave the part a 20degree chamfer. By then, all my small triangle carbide bits were worn out, so I'll have to take the finishing passes with HSS..
That's how far I've come 'til now. More progress coming over the weekend :wave:
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