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The Sajo mill is here

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Trion:
Thanks for the reply people. I am also a car guy, and I felt I had been on the cheap side when putting on the grease as shown in the picture. Actually, that is just smeared on the outside of the bearing. So I gave it some 10-15 additional pumps with the grease pump when it was assembled and running ::)
To save the last bits of my socalled "machinist" pride, I did at some time think that the bearings might get hot with too much grease, but I have not felt any heat build up at all until now..

I have not heard of precision bearings, only regular bearings.

Davo J:
There is a good right up here about precision taper bearings.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=281020

Dave

Trion:
Thanks for the reply, though it seems that I have no access since I'm not a member.
btw. Semiskilled: I read through the thread you linked to about removing a broken centre drill, good stuff. Now I know what to do when the other side breaks :lol:

Progress :D

I tapped the holes to M8 and drilled a suiting piece of flat steel to use as a clamping plate


Quick assembly showing how it is intended to be


I then removed the blade and mounted the holder in the vise. There I milled down the side surfaces of the clamping plate




Then I milled down the mounting shank to give the holder a 16mm shank and centre height


The finished shank ended up to be 16,03 +/1 0,01mm high. I could not believe my measurements, as the milling was done by using  0,10mm thick paper as feeler gauge for height and distance and the rest was lef to the graduations on the handwheels. Not to mention my dodgy parallels :bugeye:


Tada :)


Then it was ready for a test. Obviously, the shape of the blade was not intended for parting, but the testing would still show if there were some mistakes in the design


And there was one. I had not milled the surface for the clamping plate low enough, so the blade could still move when pushed onto a shaft of steel. So I found a shim and put it between the blade and the clamp


Then I reground the parting edge and parted of a 20mm steel shaft at the slowest feed possible, adding droplets of cutting oil the whole time. The chips broke very nicely :)


Here's the cutting shape. The front face is made at a slight angle, such that the part that is to be parted off, falls off first, then the small knob on the shaft is turned down


The surface was very nice, though I should have wiped of the cutting oil before taking the picture :bang:



Today I felt like starting on a new project, and the mill despearately needed a cover for the Y and Z-axis ways


I drew a quick c-o-c and found a suting piece of aluminium. I have no "engineers blue", but permanent marker does the same job :thumbup:


Cut of the excessive piece with the hack saw


Milled it down to a square shank and cut the 50 degree tapered face also with the hack saw


Then I cleaned up the cut faces


Finally I lined up both tapered pieces in the vise, to mill the 50degree taper properly.


I figured since I have this fancy angular head, I might aswell use it, so I set it up for milling at 50 degrees


The end mill was just a bit too short to mill the whole surface, but I didn't bother


I set the head back to 0 degrees (didn't tram it though) and milled the edge flat


I had already found a suiting piece of flat aluminium previously, and after a bit of lining up, i clamped one of the angular blocks to the plate


Then I dug out my TIG welder and got it going at about 95A on AC


On the other end of the bar I welded on a semi-square piece of aluminium which I had cut of previously


Then I drilled and tapped two holes, one M6 and one M8. The M6 screw holds the angular block onto the plate, while the M8 screw pushes the block towards the other


And then I trial fitted it


You can just see the back of the M6 screw sticking out of the surface.


Then I found the designated rubber and bent a piece of 1mm aluminium plate around the edge I wanted to screw onto the mounting profile I just made


Then I drilled a lot of 3mm holes, tapped them to M4 and put on screws. This is seen from the front


And this is from the back


Then it was ready to mount on the mill


I removed the old rubber way cover and used the exisiting holes and bracket to mount the new cover to the table. I also found a longer M8 screw and welded on some mickey mouse ears to make it easy to use. I have made it this way, beacause the rubber cover is not long enough for the table to be able to move all the way down to the floor, so now I can easily move the cover with the table the few times I need it to be that low.
I must say, I'm vey pleased with the result :ddb:



Then I got back to the parting blade holder. Mounted it in the vise, semi-aligned it by eye measurement and took a 0,5mm cut. Initially it sounded good, but all of a sudden the noise changed and the cut became very rough. Seems like I forgot about the broken centre drill which still was stuck in it's hole, so now I have made my 16mm endmill dull :doh:


As a quick and dirty fix, I took the holder to the belt sander and sanded down the newly milled surface, cleaned the threads and put it all back together




That's all folks :wave:

Trion:
I managed to squeeze in a few hours of shop time on Sunday morning, here it is:

This mod is by no means necessary, I just felt like welding something and swarf protection still seemed like a hot subject in the shop, so I gathered a few pieces of stainless :dremel:


And welded them together like this.


The cut and bent section of the small pipe is for the part to clamp nicely onto a M16 thread


And here it is in place :ddb:


I still have a lot to learn about fillet welding with the TIG welder, as you can see on the burn marks in the middle of the plate, but it ok for it's purpose :)

Bernd:
Hey, those welds look pretty darn good. Better than mine.  :thumbup:

Bernd

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