Author Topic: Adapting indicators to round bar mounts (Read 10699 times)

Chuck in E. TN · « **on:** January 14, 2010, 05:42:10 AM »

What ingenious adaptors have you come up with for mounting a DI or DTI on barstock to aid in tramming and work setup?

Chuck in E. TN

ieezitin · « **Reply #1 on:** January 14, 2010, 10:53:03 AM »

Chuck.

What I have found to be really useful is stainless or steel small bore tubing, the beauty is that you can bend it into fine shapes that illuminate knuckles. I even used to own a lathe where I installed a bar overhead running parallel the full length of the lathe.

Another trick is to install a steel strip on the side of the lathe running the full length right underneath the rack slide that the saddle runs on, then you can with ease just slap on the DI mounted on the regular Mag-Base

The one shown here is permanently mounted to the lathe headstock, I always use the independent chuck so having the ease of this set up makes my life simple. One other piece of advice. Get as many indicators as you can and place them in dedicated areas and leave them there permanently. Your set up time will increase greatly. Btw these ideas work for the mill too.

All the best. Anthony.

Chuck in E. TN · « **Reply #2 on:** January 15, 2010, 06:14:32 AM »

Did you make the fittings that hold the DI?

Chuck

ieezitin · « **Reply #3 on:** January 15, 2010, 10:36:23 AM »

Chuck.

No I did not I am a avid auction hound and come across these things all the time but if I had too they would be easy to make. In fact I will go in the shop later and get some pictures of one I did make myself for a carriage stop.

All the Best. Anthony.

ieezitin · « **Reply #4 on:** January 16, 2010, 12:02:55 PM »

Chuck
Here as promised are a few pics of a carriage stop I made for one of my lathes.
Its Aluminum the size is 1 inch x .500 x 2.400 long ( 12.7mm x 25.4mm x 61mm)

I measured the indicator plunger tang then I drilled it dead to size. I did the same to the spigot of the adjustable carriage stop. ( I ran a reamer through it too because I wanted the correct size of both the spigots if you don’t have a reamer get as close as you can if anything go a little under as you can ream out with emery cloth )

I then marked out my tightening screw holes perpendicular to the spigot holes and drilled accordingly, then counter bored so the screw would be flush with the surface. ( I forget the screw size.) Then with an Exactor saw sliced down both of the sides to give it relief. The saw sizes are .0085 or .21mm thick, the thin saw has 32TPI and the other about 40TPI both make a nice clean cut. This size saw I find work the best as when you tighten the screw it really clamps down hard on the spigot.

Allen head screws work best because I feel they give a better grip, plus counter sinking the holes give a all round better fit and look.

Hope this helps. Anthony.

Chuck in E. TN · « **Reply #5 on:** January 16, 2010, 02:49:56 PM »

That's more like what I'm looking for. I spent the morning making 2 adaptors from 3/4" aluminum round. I assembled them with 3/8" mild steel bar to make a tramming jig for my mill. It's just not solid enough. I'm having a dickens of a time trying to get good measurements. Between the head moving when I lock it down to flex in the tram jig, I'm going nuts.
Here is my setup: http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/tram%20tool/
Any comments/suggestions welcome.

Chuck in E. TN

ieezitin · « **Reply #6 on:** January 16, 2010, 06:11:52 PM »

Chuck.
I saw your set up. I have a feeling that your connections may have some play in them plus round stock is not the best for spreading weight over a distance. I have sent a little drawing for you to look at what I would make.

I know you know this but everything has to be as tight as it can be, in the drawing the connections would be made so when clamped down they become one unit, screws holding round stock like you have it allows for some play if the tolerances are not tight.

Another advantage of rectangular stock is strength, its like an I Beam in a building, the piece in essence has a back bone.

One more thing to consider make sure there is no play in your spindle.

Hope this helps. Anthony.

Chuck in E. TN · « **Reply #7 on:** January 16, 2010, 06:45:46 PM »

I agree with your comments Anthony. I could flex my setup easily, even though I had turned the adaptors on my lathe, and fitted everything as tight as I know how. The column also flexes with hand pressure. I could change the indicator reading by tugging on the drill chuck. I tried swapping the drill chuck for a collet and it seemed better.
I guess it’s back to the drawing board. Might as well install the gas lift strut and longer rack, disassemble the table for cleanup, and other ancillary tasks until I can build a better tramming jig.
Thanks for your help.

Chuck in E. TN

andyf · « **Reply #8 on:** January 17, 2010, 07:42:44 AM »

Hi Chuck,
Your Photobucket pictures show a DTI with a flipper arm on the end being used for tramming. Rather than being held vertically, the DTI needs to be as horizontal as you can get it before its body fouls the mill table, to get the flipper to turn the dial needle a reasonable amount. A dial indicator with a plunger would be better, because you will get maximum dial movement when the DI is held vertically.

Andy

Chuck in E. TN · « **Reply #9 on:** January 18, 2010, 06:49:30 PM »

My buddy Joe came over to help. He talked me into stripping the mill down to clean it and install the gas strut lift kit. We reassembled the mill and adjusted the gibs. Much tighter now, and I'll have another go at tramming tomorrow.
I will start by making an all steel, flat stock adaptor for the DI and start again.
Thanks to all that responded.

Chuck in E. TN

Chuck in E. TN · « **Reply #10 on:** January 18, 2010, 07:17:44 PM »

As this thread started when I was trying to make a tramming jig, and I have started a thread on tramming at http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2474.0, I'm going to close/abandon this trhrad in favor of the tramming thread.
Thanks again to all that responded.

Chuck

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