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| Adapting indicators to round bar mounts |
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| Chuck in E. TN:
What ingenious adaptors have you come up with for mounting a DI or DTI on barstock to aid in tramming and work setup? :scratch: Chuck in E. TN |
| ieezitin:
Chuck. What I have found to be really useful is stainless or steel small bore tubing, the beauty is that you can bend it into fine shapes that illuminate knuckles. I even used to own a lathe where I installed a bar overhead running parallel the full length of the lathe. Another trick is to install a steel strip on the side of the lathe running the full length right underneath the rack slide that the saddle runs on, then you can with ease just slap on the DI mounted on the regular Mag-Base The one shown here is permanently mounted to the lathe headstock, I always use the independent chuck so having the ease of this set up makes my life simple. One other piece of advice. Get as many indicators as you can and place them in dedicated areas and leave them there permanently. Your set up time will increase greatly. Btw these ideas work for the mill too. All the best. Anthony. |
| Chuck in E. TN:
Did you make the fittings that hold the DI? Chuck |
| ieezitin:
Chuck. No I did not I am a avid auction hound and come across these things all the time but if I had too they would be easy to make. In fact I will go in the shop later and get some pictures of one I did make myself for a carriage stop. All the Best. Anthony. |
| ieezitin:
Chuck Here as promised are a few pics of a carriage stop I made for one of my lathes. Its Aluminum the size is 1 inch x .500 x 2.400 long ( 12.7mm x 25.4mm x 61mm) I measured the indicator plunger tang then I drilled it dead to size. I did the same to the spigot of the adjustable carriage stop. ( I ran a reamer through it too because I wanted the correct size of both the spigots if you don’t have a reamer get as close as you can if anything go a little under as you can ream out with emery cloth ) I then marked out my tightening screw holes perpendicular to the spigot holes and drilled accordingly, then counter bored so the screw would be flush with the surface. ( I forget the screw size.) Then with an Exactor saw sliced down both of the sides to give it relief. The saw sizes are .0085 or .21mm thick, the thin saw has 32TPI and the other about 40TPI both make a nice clean cut. This size saw I find work the best as when you tighten the screw it really clamps down hard on the spigot. Allen head screws work best because I feel they give a better grip, plus counter sinking the holes give a all round better fit and look. Hope this helps. Anthony. |
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