Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
a nine cylinder radial engine, plans by "ageless engines"
madjackghengis:
You know Bernd, I was thinking a lot about surface grinders, and the many ways one can approximate one while shaping this flat. I've read of a method of driving a wheel on a pillar on one of those granite checking blocks, (since I won't drill holes in my surface plate for anything), with the belt kind of loose, and the nine by nine or thereabouts granite block well mounted not to move, and sliding the work under the wheel, after dressing it of course with a makeshift setup using a diamond dressing stone, and a clamped parallel, with the object to grind in the neighborhood of a quarter of a thousandth at a time, and always feeding the work into out-going end of the grinding wheel. I've got one of those blocks, and about a dozen or two odd motors, I think I might try to jig up a spindle to fit on a pillar that will bolt in the hole already in the block, and see what I can do. It'd be nice to know the sides are both flat, and are parallel. The uncut side of the stock is flat and straight right now, even after the cutting by the shaper, so it would just be grinding the side I cut, and only a couple of thousandths, total at worst. That's a good idea, and I appreciate the suggestion. Let me see what turns up and see if I can get a straight crank and some interesting pictures. A man can put off a good idea for decades because he finds his own way around a problem, only to finally end up with a situation which requires doing what has been put off for so long. I could write a book if I could remember all the good ideas and good advice I've been given over the years. Damned brain cells!!! cheers :beer: Mad Jack
Bernd:
Sounds like you've got Guy Lautard's Bedside Readers. Can't remember which one it's in but he explains how a friend of his ground his tool block almost square with that method. He also mentioned that .001" was a heavy cut on such a hands on grinder.
Hey, you can always mount a grinder on the end of the shaper and do it that way. I've read about somebody doing that but can't remember where. Ani't getting old fun. Can't remember a dam thing. :lol:
Bernd
madjackghengis:
You know Bernd, I've got all Guy Lautard's readers, and have gotten a lot of good info out of them, and this was one of the tidbits. By the way, Bernd, if you haven't tried his suggestion of stoning off a file, and using the stoned file for lathe filing, you should. I finally did, after knowing it for ten or fifteen years, and was shocked at the quality improvement and the overall end finish. If you can't do everything in the world, you can learn an awful lot about what you don't get to, by reading. About three things went wrong yesterday making it a non-profit day all the way, so, rather than tackle the crank, which has me a bit peeved right now, I went ahead and chucked the chunk of bronze to be the rear main bearing, machined the first side, and bored the main bearing and fit it to the rear shaft, which fits quite nicely with just enough room for the oil, and hopefully tight enough to build good oil pressure, when it's running.
Now all I have to do is chuck on the bearing, center it well, and finish it off for thickness, diameter, a shoulder to bear in the case on, and drill mounting holes. I'm either getting my motorcycle safety inspected, or getting three welding tanks swapped out for full ones, and then finishing the rear bearing today, all depending on the weather and the clock. At least when you still have hundreds of small parts to make, you don't have to stop on a project, just because what you're working on isn't cooperating. The problem is I've got to get a straight crank together, so I can get to the master rod, which I expect to be a real pain, and require lots of time and attention.
Sometimes it's a real pain to have the real work break your machines, and cost you money when all you want to do is get a simple job done. I'm still playing with the tech reps over the "proper" insert for my valve re-seating machine, which is obsolete now, even though I bought it new, not twenty years ago. Hopefully today we, meaning me, the tech rep at MSC, the tech rep at Kennametals, and the tech rep at LeBlonde can all get together and come out with the same answer, and the insert chosen, fit my cutter bar. That's all I've got for today, too much time on the tele yesterday, and not enough successful work. :bang: :bang:Mad Jack
madjackghengis:
Every once in a while, strange things happen, and everything falls in place, so I try to let it happen as often as possible. I took the bearing, half finished, cleaned out all the chips from my three jaw chuck, and chucked the half inch deep bearing in it, and put an indicator in the inside of the bearing. With only a bit of playing around, I had less than a quarter thousandth of runout even though its a three jaw, so with that, I went to work on the rest of the bearing.
chucked on the bearing spigot turning the o.d.
machining the shoulder the bearing will bear on in the crankcase, a spigot .062 deep
machining the inner thrust bearing to length, .020, for crank shaft end play
front side of bearing, with spigot and thrust bearing showing
back side of bearing, with half an inch of bearing sticking out, for the oil pump to mount over, and feed the crank through. There are about thirty or so holes which must be drilled for mounting the bearing in the crankcase, holes which will mount the oil pump, and holes which will be oil galleries, as well as bearing pivot holes for the oil pump shafts for both a pressure and a scavenge pump, all of which require the oil pump made, and fit to keep the oil going in its proper path. All of this must be done before any more can be done to the actual bearing, so I am left with building the oil pump, and finishing the bearing arangement, or finishing the crank properly, and then moving on with the oil pump. Either way, my next session will be a long and tedious one requiring accurate mating of the work to what is done. Both require the other as the oil pump requires the drive gear set up on the rear shaft, and the crank shaft requires the oil pump set up, that the gear can be set up properly. Almost as if it were one big shaft job. Well, it should be fun, Mad Jack
sbwhart:
Coming along nicely Jack lovely work.
I like the shaper smoke signals:- what was the message :D
Have fun
Stew
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