Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
a nine cylinder radial engine, plans by "ageless engines"
zeroaxe:
Thanks for the info on the Shaper/s. I will have a look at the quoted thread later tonight. Clearly, I still have a lot to learn. Unfortunately, due an upcoming move in September, I wont be able to aquire on of these type machines. That is why I am aiming for a smaller X2-type mill.
Good job on that crank. It even looks professionally made! :clap:
madjackghengis:
--- Quote from: zeroaxe on March 19, 2010, 03:01:01 PM ---Thanks for the info on the Shaper/s. I will have a look at the quoted thread later tonight. Clearly, I still have a lot to learn. Unfortunately, due an upcoming move in September, I wont be able to aquire on of these type machines. That is why I am aiming for a smaller X2-type mill.
Good job on that crank. It even looks professionally made! :clap:Thanks for the compliment, I just want to say, when I first got into machine work, about forty years ago, I was told shapers were obsolete, and I'd never use one as a machinist. I've worked only part time as a machinist at any one time, having spent twenty as a Marine, however in every machine shop I've ever worked in, part time, there's been at least one shaper, and it was being used every week, if not every day. The last shop I worked in that wasn't my own, there were half a dozen shapers, and each was set up for a specific use, and all were used commonly. Nothing cuts a keyway in a large propeller better and faster, nor in a shaft coupling for the other end of a boat shaft. I use my mill and lathe every day, but would be hard pressed sometimes without the shaper. Nothing does better dove tails, or gets all the features of a piece dead in line and parallel better, or even matches. Of course when I went to electronics school for the Marine Corps, I was told not to worry about tube theory, as I would never see a tube in service as a technician, either. All the equipment I worked on had tubes throughout the two decades I served, and when I retired from the Corps in 97, as head of the same shop I first checked in for my first duty station, I left behind a shop which still had dozens of aircraft systems which were primarily tube driven, with very little solid state parts in them. I just was given a 12 inch shaper which I will rebuild, that was made before the 1880s, and still has less than five thousandths slop in the ram. It too will get used often. I would not want my shop to be without one, having used them all my life. The sides of my crank cheeks are flatter and straighter than the faces which were milled, and I wish I had used the shaper for the faces, after the fact. They are less sensitive to hard and soft spots in the work, particularly if the tool edge is kept keen. Thanks for looking, Mad Jack :beer:
--- End quote ---
madjackghengis:
While not a banner day, yesterday worked out well, I got the rear shaft made twice, wrong the first time, and fitting properly the second. I failed to take pictures of the turning and all, but I did remember to take pictures after it was done.
the crank shaft, together, almost finished, just lacking the last of the oil passages and the distributor drive gear note the oil groove around the rear main bearing, this is the input for the oil for the main bearing, the master connecting rod and the front main bearing
another view of the bottom side of the crank shaft, note the dark spots in the middle of the edge of each crank cheek - these were machined out of hardened fifty or sixty year old tool steel from a disc cultivator farm implement. The dark spot is what is left of one of the tack welds I used to keep the two pieces fixed together for all the machine work, the weld on the other end was completely machined away with no sign of it left
note the hole just visible in the cheek weight, a quarter inch hole was reamed through both for aligning the crank as it is pressed together
the crank standing on its webs, showing its size relative to the case, cover, and with a castle nut which will hold the prop on. Next job is to finish drilling out the final oil passages, drilling the final vent, as this engine vents through the prop shaft, needing only the cross hole drilled for this now, but requiring a fixture to drill holes at a 45 degree angle from the center of the crank pin, through each cheek, and connecting the pin to the rear bearing and oil supply, with the passage from the pin to through the front cheek supplying the front main bearing, and with the oil coming out from around the bearing to pool in the front cavity, and oil the cam and the prop shaft bearing, a ball bearing which will fit in the front cover. The case has a drain at the bottom for the oil to return to the sump connected to the main case cavity for the return pump to pick up, and return to the tank via a filter. Next is machining the rear main bearing, as this is where the oil pumps attach, and drive off a gear which will be pinned to the rear shaft against the rear main bearing. It's hard to choose whether to machine the master rod and slave rods next, after the rear main bearing, or to stay there, and machine the two oil pumps and associated work. The oil pumps are directly adjacent to the bearing, however the master rod and slave rods appear more interesting, the choice is difficult, but both must be done, so it will be as it will be. First, a fixture to allow drilling the oil passages through the cheeks of the crank, can't forget that. Till next time, Mad Jack :clap: :beer:
zeroaxe:
I know what you mean about those dark spots. I am in the process of making a ball turner(actually, I need the turner to turn (concave or convex??? :scratch:) 'pulley' or rather a 'wheel' for a tube bender(NOT a pipe bender!). Anyway, I also have 4 spots like that on the bottom of the disc where I welded a 'stub' to hold in the chuck(this disc was cut at work on a plasma cutter that is not realy accurate!). After one side was faced, I cut the stub off and face that side. No matter how much machining, I cant get rid of those 4 spots!!!* Also, I tried (when the stub was still on) to cut the edge square. The steel is tempered too much(way too hard) there and these carbide tools arent happy with that. Actually, I fuzzed my tools :( Live and learn!
I also noticed something else in this pic...... It is not only that black wheel on the table that I am curious about, but also the rest that is attached to it!!! What is it!?
*Side note... I cant remembered if it was here or on the CXhester forum, that I got some advice about this tempered disc. I heated it up with the Oxy/Acethylene torch to HOT(not red hot, but hot ), fired up the BBQ and make some fire. Only this time, it was to roast some metal! I left it at it's own devices in it's ash-bed. Took it the next day and what do you know? Machined tose spots right off! The only thing that remains, is the 4 little 'guide holes' that I had the plasma cutter "punch" in the disc. In after thought, it is not even neccesary because I can mark it out and just have the drill at it! :bang:
Brass_Machine:
Thats a nice looking crankshaft! :thumbup:
Eric
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