Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
a nine cylinder radial engine, plans by "ageless engines"
Bernd:
Lookin' real good Mad Jack. :thumbup:
Looks a bit scary using that cutter and only having one bolt to hold it all down. I bet that would have made you mess your pants if that had come loose.
Oh, go back and check your math. You said you had .010 left and then took off .015 and .055. Looks like you would have been milling air. Let me guess, you got the decimal point in the wrong place. ::)
Keep up the nice work.
Bernd
madjackghengis:
--- Quote from: Bernd on May 17, 2010, 07:04:53 PM ---Lookin' real good Mad Jack. :thumbup:
Looks a bit scary using that cutter and only having one bolt to hold it all down. I bet that would have made you mess your pants if that had come loose.
Oh, go back and check your math. You said you had .010 left and then took off .015 and .055. Looks like you would have been milling air. Let me guess, you got the decimal point in the wrong place. ::)
Keep up the nice work.
Bernd
--- End quote ---
Hi Bernd, it's a lot easier keeping track of all those numbers while you're making them, then while you're trying to remember exactly what you did last night. That last cut was a light clean up cut on three different surfaces, two parallel, and one perpendicular and round, I think I left five thousandths cut on the actual round part of the rod and fifteen top and bottom for the keyway cutter to clean up. thanks for keeping me honest, wouldn't want this board to look like politicians like to do machine work.
With that cleared up, I looked at the master rod, and took down a slave rod from a Jacobson radial engine, looked at the rather round, slightly worked analog in the plans, and decided slave rods were boring, and I ought to finish the crank, so when it's assembled, it can stay together, so I prepared to drill the two remaining oil passages, the ones that are not parallel or perpendicular to the shafts.
master rod adjacent to the slave rod
slave rod rolled over to show profile
starting to square up the block which will become the oil passage guide
another shot of the block in the shaper
the finished block on the crankshaft, ready for use
finished block locked between pressed together crank cheeks
the holes are drilled 45 degrees to pierce the crankpin, the cheek and finally the mainshaft and main bearings
another view of the crank with the block
the top view of the crank, ready for drilling
after drilling, the crank was split to remove the guide block, this picture shows the hole leaving the crank pin, and entering the cheek of the crank
this picture shows the passage drilled to the front main bearing from the crank pin
another view of the front of the crank and the path of the oil passage
the bottom side of the front mainshaft bearing, showing the oil hole, oil seeping out of this bearing will oil the cam gears and cam, along with the front prop shaft bearing
the front mainshaft bearing with its oil hole
when the modern day drill driver didn't want to drill the oil passages, I broke out the old standby, my black and decker, had to pay a dollar at the flea market for it twenty six or seven years ago, and put a cord on it. Most of the afternoon making the guide block, which by the way, was supposed to have a slit in it, and a clamp bolt but was avoided by making it a thousandth too long, so the cheeks of the crank held it solidly in place while drilling. It took about twenty minutes to drill both oil passages, but I have the guide block for another engine if I were to build one. Much more exciting afternoon than making eight boring slave rods. Now I have to plug the ends of the oil passages in the crankshaft, to keep the oil going where its supposed to. That will complete the crankshaft, except for final fit, and let me get on with boring slave rods and then an oil pump. Thanks for watching, ta ta for now, :thumbup: :headbang: mad jack
madjackghengis:
I think I missed a photo, or I tried to go too fast for a rainy day with a satalite link, here's a picture of the oil passage leaving the crank pin, and entering the rear cheek, connecting to the main oil passage from the oil pump.
I think slave rods are in order, something easy, I'm not ready to build the oil pump yet. ta ta for now, mad jack
madjackghengis:
Yesterday was a bad day at Black Rock, clouds hung over, and fine work would not turn out well, so after wasting a couple hours hunting the right material for the slave rods, I decided to remake the front propeller shaft bearing cover. I'd made one long ago, but in cutting it off from the thin piece of mother material, gouged it pretty good with the cut off tool. It was on the back side, so it would barely show on the edge, but I would know what it looked like. On top of that, I either had to take out the crankshaft and machine the bearing shoulder to center the crank in the case, or make allowance for the bearing position in the cover, and save a lot of work and possible heartbreak, if the crankshaft were to do something stupid while turning it. I put a piece of scrap in the chuck, turned the inside profile, to match the bearing, bored the .075 depth the bearing stuck out the front cover, and flipped it, so I could put a radius on the outside, and drill and counterbore the six mounting holes.
the cover, set on the mill for drilling the hole circle for the six holes.
The cover with the holes done, counterbored, and cleaned up for mounting.
The cover, mounted on the engine's front cover
a slightly better perspective on the cover, mounted in place.
having all the crank assembled, with the master rod in place, the main bearings screwed up solid as they will be when running, I have been oiling all the bearings with teflon bearing gun oil (CLP), and spent the past two evenings spinning the crank around, using the bit of bar stock drilled, and held on with the prop nut, to work in the bearings, and loosen things up. Each step adds a new surface that bears on something, increasing the drag, and needing working out. It is starting to feel like an engine, and not just a shaft with a brake on it. I can almost see light down the tunnel, only a few hundred more parts to make and it will be done. That's all for now, :headbang: mad jack
madjackghengis:
--- Quote from: Bernd on May 17, 2010, 07:04:53 PM ---Lookin' real good Mad Jack. :thumbup:
Looks a bit scary using that cutter and only having one bolt to hold it all down. I bet that would have made you mess your pants if that had come loose.
Oh, go back and check your math. You said you had .010 left and then took off .015 and .055. Looks like you would have been milling air. Let me guess, you got the decimal point in the wrong place. ::)
Keep up the nice work.
Bernd
--- End quote ---
Hi Bernd, I ain't scared, I can do anything!! The key to this is plenty of surface area on the bottom side of the rod on the surface or the spindle, and plenty of surface area on the top clamping area, with a snug fine thread bolt. As near as I can tell, the master rod didn't move a bit from start to finish. Put it down to too much seat of the pants engineering and not enough schooling.
But now I've got some progress, I've spun the crank with the master rod on it in the cases for a few nights now, got it good and loose without much slop, feels like good bearings, meanwhile, I've been getting the slave rods ready.
machining some 3/8ths plate on both sides to get it down to 5/16ths and parallel.
with the plate to thickness and squared off, I drilled and reamed holes for nine slave rods, two and an 1/8th in apart for the pins, then scribed them with lines, and cut the blanks out on the band saw
nine blanks, ready for machining to shape and size
with a pin in a drilled and reamed hole in a block in the vise, radiusing the ends of the rods by hand, very careful on the "hungry" side of that end mill
milling the rod ends, with a better perspective of the mill in the shop
a pile of slave rods with radiuses on each end
with a pin in each end, for position, milling the rods to width with an end mill, each one then flipped and the other side milled
getting ready to use a 5/32nds ball mill to slot each side .090 deep to give proper "H" profile with about .100ths web in the middle
doing the ball milling, I don't have a 3/16ths collet, so the ball mill is in a chuck, but the runout is under half a thousandth, so it works fine at 2200 rpm, even gives a nice finish
each rod is milled, burrs removed, flipped, and opposite side milled using the DRO to establish ends of slot standard
after cleaning them, each rod has an oil hole drilled in the ends with a #1 center drill
drilling oil holes in the other end
a pile of slave rods, ready for fitting
another shot of the rods
a rear view of the engine with the crank, master rod, and slave rods installed, rear main bearing removed for the photo
another perspective of the engine with the rods and crankshaft installed
looking down on the engine with crank and rods installed
a frontal view of engine with front cover, bearing cover installed, along with crankshaft and full complement of rods
Now I have to order some 2024 alloy aluminum for the pistons, it stands up to heat better than the 6000 series aluminums, and order some cast iron, or see if some of the scrap I have, can be machined for a good set of rings. I expect to end up buying the cast iron as the quality is important if the rings are to seat in. I think with the crank and rods out of the way, it is probably time to build the oil pumps, one to feed the main bearings and rods, and the other to scavenge all the oil out, and return it to the oil tank as this is a dry sump engine. that's all for now, folks, thanks for looking, hope you enjoy. mad jack :bugeye:
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version