Author Topic: Lathe Indexing Attachment (Read 83744 times)

Artie · « **Reply #25 on:** January 17, 2010, 09:25:26 PM »

Wow, I was somehow part of this and now IM CONFUSED....

Glad its all sorted. Yes Rob and I know each from other places... He's a great guy and suggested I have a look at this site. Im enjoying it so far... looking forward to more.

Cheers Artie (My initials = RT = Artie) So Im Rob as well....

Bernd · « **Reply #26 on:** January 18, 2010, 09:51:30 AM »

Well now, that's all cleared up, for me anyway. Sorry your confused now Artie (Rob)

Bernd

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #27 on:** January 19, 2010, 03:09:52 PM »

Hi Lads

What was i making here

Cheers Rob

troup · « **Reply #28 on:** July 08, 2010, 05:10:36 AM »

Quote from: Dean W on January 15, 2010, 03:10:24 AM

...
for those who have gone through the bumpity bump of cutting the corners off odd shapes to make round shapes, what are the diameter of your plates, and how fast did you turn the lathe spindle? This is one of my least favorite things, and am happy to hear how others do it.

If you have a rotary table and some way of end milling, this is a much more relaxing way to proceed, and easier on the machinery - you don't need to spend time cutting air; just concentrate on the corners. Can stack up several if you have enough grunt. If you're pushed for clamping real estate, remember your clamps don't need to stay clear of the cutting envelope, unlike say on a lathe faceplate.

If really pushed for space, you can come up with a clamping scheme which only presents one corner clear for cutting; move the workpiece between corners.
If you cut the pieces out to a consistent blank size and shape, it's handy to have a three-point reference, either just felt pen lines on the table or buttons in T slots or some such, to present the workpiece in a consistent position.

The other trick which goes hand in hand with this is to use roughing (corrugated sided) endmills

John Stevenson · « **Reply #29 on:** July 08, 2010, 06:53:51 AM »

Why didn't you say you were doing this when you were down last week.
I'd have given you a set of plates.......

John S.

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #30 on:** July 08, 2010, 10:58:50 AM »

Hi John

Damn ,,,,,,,,,,, i missed a trick there

,, never crossed my mined to tap you for some plates ,,,, mumble mumble mumble must be getting slow

I had forgot i have this project on the go

, thanks for reminding me,,, must dig it out

Rob

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #31 on:** January 23, 2011, 03:09:39 PM »

Hi Chaps

I decided this year to try and get all of my unfinished project out off the way before i start any more

,, so i thought i would start with this one ,, as i started it just over a year ago

,,, Well my plan did not last long ,, all off five minutes

,, i decided to make the spindle ,,so i centred a length of 7/8 S/S bar ,cut a start and run out groove for the threading tool ,,, then went to set up the lathe for 16DP ,,,,,,,,,,,

no can do ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, need a different gear quadrant

, so i made one

Gets that all sorted

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, then spent two hours looking for my swan neck tool holder ,,,,,,,

no idea whats happened to it

So made another

Great now i can get going

soi made a start on cutting the worm

Then just as i am nearly finished ,, just as the tool is leaving the end of the worm ,,,,,,,,,,,, crunch

oooooooops ,,,, stripped two teeth on the tumbler gears

Luck no damage to the worm ,,,,,,,,, so tomorrow night i will have to make a couple more gears

Rob

John Stevenson · « **Reply #32 on:** January 23, 2011, 03:48:39 PM »

Rob,
Can you wait until the post gets there Tuesday ? got a stack of those tumbler gears here.

John S.

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #33 on:** January 23, 2011, 03:48:59 PM »

Isn't that sequence called, "Consequences", Rob?

Very nice work, on the successful sections mate!

David D

Bluechip · « **Reply #34 on:** January 23, 2011, 03:51:47 PM »

Hi Rob

Bad luck

often wondered how those Tufnol gears survive .. must take a hammering when doing intermittent cuts .. I rounded some 1.67" AF hex last year. Abandoned the leadscrew, fed by apron handwheel instead ... terrifying.

What's the t'worm for anyway .. ??

Dave BC

EDIT Ah Lathe indexing attachment ... READ THE DAMN INSTRUCTIONS ....

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #35 on:** January 23, 2011, 03:57:24 PM »

Quote from: John Stevenson on January 23, 2011, 03:48:39 PM

Rob,
Can you wait until the post gets there Tuesday ? got a stack of those tumbler gears here.

John S.

sure can John

,i am sure there are other things around the shop i can break in the mean time , pm sent

Cheers David ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, heed busting ,, a am going backwards

Hi Dave BC ,,,,,,,,,, they are the originals,,, 16 DP (5TPI ) was a tad to much for them

Rob

Bluechip · « **Reply #36 on:** January 23, 2011, 04:04:57 PM »

Hi Rob

5 TPI ?? Thought it was not possible to do a thread coarser than the leadscrew ?? Yours is 8 TPI I suppose ??

Surely the L/S is going faster than the mandrel. Or have I got it all wrong ... AGAIN ..

IIRC the coarsest thread I have ever screwcut was 11 tpi .. might have been something like 3/4" BSW long, long ago ..

Dave BC

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #37 on:** January 23, 2011, 04:18:33 PM »

Hi Dave

It is possible to cut a courser thread than the lead screw

,but it dose put allot of strain on the gear train

5 tpi is about max for a Myford

Rob

Bogstandard · « **Reply #38 on:** January 23, 2011, 04:48:26 PM »

Always happens, just when you are half way thru a job.

I did the same sort of thing with my old Atlas, but actually sheared the heads off the gear central bolts. I couldn't believe how lucky I was, seeing the gears are only made from Mazak.

Maybe you have should have done it using your leadscrew handle, it takes all the pressure off the gears when cutting coarse threads.

John

NickG · « **Reply #39 on:** January 23, 2011, 05:22:27 PM »

Rob,

Even the gear quadrant and tool are works of art! Lovely work.

It's funny stuff that those gears are made of, I wrecked one of my change wheels trying to get the 3 jaw chuck off my lathe when I first got it, could only find a steel replacement so will have to bear that in mind in future, guess they're made of that for a reason.

Nick

John Stevenson · « **Reply #40 on:** January 23, 2011, 06:13:59 PM »

Double edged sword.
Myfords claim they are there to quieten the gear train down but the ML7 has steel gears.

The earlier ML7's, non gearbox model, have a two piece leadscrew with a brass shear pin so it acts as the 'fuse', later ones had a one piece leadscrew and steel gears so no fail safe.

If I owned a super 7 I'd replace the 20T and 30T tumbler gear with cast ones as they wear better and go to a two piece leadscrew with brass shear pin.

In the event of a crash like Rob has had it would only be a case of fitting a new pin and carry on with the job, no expense, no waiting and typical lack of Myford foresight to lose something they had.

John S.

krv3000 · « **Reply #41 on:** January 24, 2011, 06:49:40 AM »

HI brill worck can not wate till is all dun regards bob

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #42 on:** January 24, 2011, 04:15:38 PM »

Rob nice work Sorry about crash gears

Why did you make the threading tool holder like that????? And is it steel or ali (would that matter)????

Gerhard

j45on · « **Reply #43 on:** January 24, 2011, 04:36:40 PM »

Rob I am also interested in your threading tool holder
I've not seen one like that please tell us more

John Stevenson · « **Reply #44 on:** January 24, 2011, 04:44:03 PM »

I'll leave Rob 'smash it' Wilson to explain it but they were used years ago for finish work on shapers.

John S.

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #45 on:** January 24, 2011, 05:11:19 PM »

Cheers Lads

Gerhard and Jason ,,,,, The swan neck (some bird anyway ) tool is a very old idea ,, i first laid eyes on one in an old tool catalogue , along with a few other lathe tool ideas that have been long forgotten ,some i will have to try out ,

, What it dose is eliminate tool chatter , as you can see in the photos ,, thats 1/8 deep in stainless and just the ruffing cut . no sign of any chatter

,, the tool dose this by raising the centre of the bend radius , so when its under load the tool is deflected away from the work and not into the work as with a normal tool ,, with a normal tool under cutting load it will be deflected into the work , taking more off the work and setting up vibration ,, CHATTER

,, The tool holder needs to be made from a tool steel , mild steel will not do as it will have no spring to it .
Another good thing it the tool uses old worn out milling cutters as the cutter bit

,, well worth an hour or so to make one .

Also a good tool for the shaper . as John (i hate shapers) has just said

A few ideas

,, old catalogue dose not scan to well

Rob

Edit .. ye oldie original tool ,, were a forging , not cut from solid as i have done ,,, a forged tool were the grain of the steel follows the bend would be a better job .

John Stevenson · « **Reply #46 on:** January 24, 2011, 05:24:13 PM »

Quote from: Rob.Wilson on January 24, 2011, 05:11:19 PM

Cheers Lads

Also a good tool for the shaper . as John (i hate shapers) has just said

Rob

I don't hate all shapers, only the ones made the wrong way.
This is the way they should be made

John S.

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #47 on:** January 24, 2011, 05:38:43 PM »

I ,, John ,,,,,,,,,, i was impressed with that bit of kit when i called into yours

Rob

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #48 on:** January 25, 2011, 03:30:07 AM »

That's a far more sensible/ useful shaper John!

David D

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #49 on:** January 25, 2011, 10:11:34 AM »

Thanks Rob makes sense now you said it.

Gerhard

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Author Topic: Lathe Indexing Attachment (Read 83744 times)

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