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| GrahamC:
Thanks for the kind words. The basic design is not my idea; the basic concept has been around for a very long time. I first saw a picture of a similar arbor in a tool catalog long ago and simply copied the idea to suit my needs. I found a couple of online diagrams of similar arbors that while show a better graphical representation of the tool: http://littlemachineshop.com/Projects/Drawings/sawarbor625.pdf http://www.metalwebnews.org/mr-tools/slitting-saw-arbor.pdf Seasons Greetings! cheers, Graham |
| Bernd:
Graham, I like the picture of that second link of the boy (teenager?) cutting a piece of stock in the lathe with the verticle milling slide at an angle. Something you don't or at least won't see much of today. Nice links bt the way, thanks. Bernd |
| Ned Ludd:
Hi Guys, Call me stupid, I'm used to it, but why are you all making the female recess in the arbour, rather than making a male shaft with a female cap to hold the blade. To my mind it would be more rigid and accurate the second way around, the saw blade would only have one sliding fit to provide "wobble". It is also easier to make with a male stub, because the cap does not need to be a good fit, it only has to hold the blade to the arbour. Ned Ludd |
| GrahamC:
Hi Ned, I don't think the way you describe it that it would be any more rigid, least not to my thinking (but that may be faulty). This style of saw arbor can provide a great deal of "clamping", I have never had on slip yet. Accuracy? This type of arbor is dead easy to make, at least to me - perhaps because I have made several like this. Make the button (or cap or whatever it is called) a nice fit in the slitting saw mounting hole - I usually aim for about -.001" from mounting hole dimension. Then when you drill and bore (or ream if you like and have one the right size) the corresponding hole in the arbor main body you can offer up the button from time to get a good - again, I aim for about +.001" from the button. But your dimensions don't need to be absolutely that precise. I don't have a single slitting saw that runs true - the saws don't wobble but they almost always never run quite true in the circumference. (hope that makes sense) Biggest benefit by far is the small projected extension beneath (beyond) the slitting saw. Meaning you can get the saw down very close to the work, vise, or whatever. cheers, Graham in cold wet (freezing rain) Ottawa Canada |
| andyf:
I vote with Ned - the register will locate the saw better if it is on the body of the arbor rather than on the end cap. I agree with Graham that the tooth tips of the saw may not be perfectly concentric to its central bore, but it must be better to avoid two small errors adding up to a larger one, where possible. Though the recess in the end cap doesn't show up well, here's one I made a few months back out of a 2MT blank end arbor to fit my old Dore Westbury mill and cope with some 5/8" bore, 1/16" thick slitting saws: The bolt head hasn't hampered me so far, but if it does I'll put a thread on a bit of round stock, leaving one end plain to braze into the end cap, and put a couple of flats on the cap for tightening down purposes. One incidental spin-off of the item is that the 5/8" register just fits in the back of my diestock for small (13/16") dies, so I sometimes get a thread started with the arbor, minus cap, in my tailstock, pressing on the back of the die to get a thread started more square than I can manage without guidance. That takes a bit of juggling to keep the pressure on, so a proper tailstock die-holder is on the round tuit list. Andy |
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