A little Sleeve Valve Engine

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Brass_Machine:
Wow!

What a great build. You got some serious talent. :bow:

Thanks for such a great thread!

Eric

NickG:
Wow, amazing build and fantastic result. What a good runner. Easy to forget what's going on inside there too so for people just seeing this end result, please go back and read the build log, or at least look at the pictures - you might be surprised how it works!

Nick

raynerd:
Amazing build, great pictures and really detailed! Thank you..

Chris

Joachim Steinke:
Hi,

many thanks for your kind appreciation and warm replies. This is also a very nice welcome to a brand-new member like me.

Unfortunately there was no real progress in building the next surrounding components this week. Instead of that I got serious trouble with my ignition module.

From the beginning I was at war with this little Hall Sensors, two of them “died” after short time, the third worked for several days and many longer testing runs quite well. So I thought the problems where solved, but I was wrong.

Last weekend the last of my reserve sensors finally gave up too and I had to order some knew one as the local dealers here don’t sell them. But with the new sensors things didn’t get better, after killing three of them in short time I stopped all attempts as I could not come to any conclusion concerning the reasons for this malfunction.

After that I spend several hours on the design of a conventional ignition switch, finally realising that a nice and proper solution is really hard to integrate in the very small frontal bearing section of my camshaft housing. Then, short before frustration took over, I had the idea of making a test run with a good old fashioned reed switch. The normal medium sized types require a much too strong magnet which I can’t fit in the small rotor. But I managed to find the real micro sized types at my local distributor, they are 9mm long and 1.8mm thick.

The small types are able to work with a 2x4mm Neodyme magnet very well, even over a distance of 3 ore 4mm. And if they are positioned in the right distance and inclination to the plane of magnet rotation you get a well defined switching point.

After realising that this could work for the ignition timing I glued the reed contact in my old Hall Sensor housing, trying to keep the suitably position I just had found out.

And things are going fine, integrated in my motor I got a precise and repeatable acting-point. The pulse frequency should by no problem too, according to the data sheet the maximum pulse rate is up to 700Hz which means 42thousand rpm on the camshaft…..the little engine will explode before getting near this point anyway…..ha ha ha…..

Okay, that’s more a theory than real praxis so far……a nice running test has to follow …..

I can say it works real good, the engine is running fine and without any difference to the Hall Sensor triggering I had used before. And as the switch is solid state now I guess the problems with EMP should be gone.

Here is an additional video, showing some “only by hand on the flywheel” starting sequences I taped today. As you can see an electro starter is not a must have…..ha ha ha….(but could be a nice add on)…..

http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_RUNNING_02.mpg

And here at last the two parts which I managed to modify over the week

I installed a small ventilation system on the left engine side and made a choke valve to reduce the oil volume which is flowing to the circumference of the sleeve valve. This will, in collaboration with the small outlet boring short above the oil pump, create a bypass like system so the not needed fluid can flow back directly into the oil sump.

Kind regards to all of you and good night from Germany

John Hill:
Congratulations on an excellent project Achim.. :bow:

:beer: ...from New Zealand.

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