A little Sleeve Valve Engine

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Joachim Steinke:
Hallo,

@Sorveltaja, the Hall Sensor I use is the very common unipolar H501, but I think for example the Infineon Types TLE 4945 L should work here as well. Both sensors are in Germany good available at shops like CONRAD Electronics or REICHELT etc. But I don’t know if the mentioned distributors will be much help for your purchasing problems in Finland?

Today I was I little impatient and wanted to find out if the oil pump will do its job right. So I made a test, turned a small coupling axle, put the bearings in the block and filled the engine with oil.

Then I mounted the whole thing on my tool grinder where I can go up to more than 10 thousand rpm, the available speed on the lathe would be not high enough for getting informative results.

I would say it’s working very well. A good stream of oil was already delivered at some hundred rpm, over thousand the whole thing becomes real messy for the engine is already open at the top.

After closing the cylinder boring provisorily I could run the pump with more than 12 thousand for a longer period, no problems with vibrations, no ugly sounds and no increasing of temperature occurred.

So I am real happy about the first real functional, living component of this little project.

Good night from Achim

Stilldrillin:
I am in awe..... :bow:

Lost for words! :scratch:

Some wonderful work there Achim. :clap:

David D

Darren:
You are not the only one David .... That's a fantastic engine your are designing and building there

And I can't stop looking at your tool grinder, did you ever make any plans available for it?

Joachim Steinke:
Hallo Darren,

sorry, but detail drawings of my tool grinder are not available. I’m used to build the components directly from my 3D CAD model, so I normally don’t create special blue prints or workshop drawings.

But all the operating principles and fundamental details of the Mini Bonelle Tool Grinder are fully documented on my web site http://www.metallmodellbau.de/. So it should be no big deal to customize things to your own purpose.

Good by from Achim

Joachim Steinke:
Hallo,

at first a little example of using the lathe as a substitute for a mill combined with a turntable.

Originally I wanted to use a simple paper sealing between the flange of the oil pump and the crank case rear. As there was still enough room between the fasting screws and the pump cylinder for a 1mm o-ring seal I choose this option by now.

But my smallest lathe cutting tool for planar use has 1.5mm width and I don’t wanted to grind a new one. So I took my small tool post grinding spindle and a little 1mm milling cutter.

Letting the lathe spindle rotate with very slow speed (ca. 50rpm) and running the cutter with 10tousand I get precise results with an excellent finish. This alternative method sometimes works much faster for me than extra putting my turn table on the mill for only one single duty.

Then today I spend some time on machining the con rod.

First I needed a fixture to hold the little rod on the turntable without using inconvenient and much too large clamps. In addition a fixture like this guaranties an always precise centring of the piece, you can turn it around without loosing any measure reference and have free access and a good sight on the things you do.

To adapt the con rod blanks to the fixture I made two precise brass bushings, one for the upper 4mm bore and the other one for the larger 5mm crank pin bearing. Below the centring bores I have two M3 threads, so the con rod can be easy turned over and fixed very convenient.

After centring the turntable to the mill axis and aligning the con rod fixture to the y-axis of the mill table (not before setting the turntable index to zero deg) things could get started.

The two blanks (one kept in reserve) are made from high strength alloy and have already got the bronze bearings assembled by press fit and are already milled to the final thickness of 6mm.

Wanting a nice radius transition going from the rod surface to the circumference of the two outer cylinders I was in need of a little ball cutter. As I don’t have a “serious” one for this job in stock (only 1mm radius is allowed here) I took some of the simple tools from the Proxxon shop and made a brass reduction insert from 2.35 to 6mm which is the dimension of my smallest milling collet.

Running this cutter with 5000 rpm worked very well and it made a good surface too.

And after milling the h-shape in both sides of the main body I finally got the con rod finished.

Good night from Achim

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