Three Cylinder Radial Engine

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sbwhart:
Hi Nick

For plan A I used a 5/8" square HSS tool with a speed of about 350 rpm feed about 0.01mm and a cut of 0.5mm:- for plan C I used a tpmr TC tool same speed and feed but a cut of 0.75 mm, when doing jobs like that I just listen to the complaints from the machine when it looks and sounds happy I keep to that recipe, ( treat it like a woman ::)) I don't try and rush things, to turn the offset took me about 3 hrs with all the messing about.

Cheers

Stew

NickG:
Cheers Stew, will bear this in mind next time!

sbwhart:
Managed to steel a bit of time in the shop this morning and finish off the crank.

Blued the web up and set it up in the spin indexer, then by using my height gauge touching on the web then with a bit of calculation set the crank up so it was on centre line.

Then using the indexer and the height gauge marked out the web.

First bit of machining indexer rotated to bring the crank vertical and drill the oil way.

Then with a nice big milling cutter hack out the web shape.

Then mill the flats to drive the valve crank. By rotating the indexer 180 the flats came out nice and symetrical on the crank.

A quick debur and thats it done just need to plug the oil ways up.

Cheers

Stew

NickG:
Nice crank there Stew. That spin indexer has come in handy. I was showing one of the apprentices here some of your indexer pics a couple of days ago to explain some of his college homework!

Nick

sbwhart:
Nick

I'm pleased that my pics were used to help a young chap with his education.

Got the fly wheel completed, the drawing calls for a cast iron flywheel but I'd got some suitable brass and I also like making composite brass ally fly wheels.

So first job make the hub I'd got a bit of ally the correct diameter but it was a bit on the thin side to chuck and part off, so I put a hole down the middle of it and held it on a loose mandrel to turn up the OD.

Then stuck it into the middle of this chunk of brass, I found quite a few bits like this down the scrap yard.

The fly wheel is held on the crank using a split tapered collet. so to make the collet, swing the compound over to 5 deg (10deg inclusive) and turn the taper, then put a 3/8" dia drill down the middle, and part off.

Then don't move the compound, keep it set.

Chuck up the fly wheel, flip the boring bar upside down, and working at the back, bore the taper in the hub, because nothings bin moved the tapers will match perfectly.

Skim up the OD of the fly wheel part off and face the other end.

Split the tapered collet and her are all the bits for the fly wheel completed.

This is how it looks

Thats all the outside bits of the engine done just the innerds to do now.

I guess thats all until after Christmas

So I'd like to wish you all and your families a very merry Christmas.

Have fun

Stew

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