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sbwhart:
Great work Chuck.

:thumbup:

Stew

bogstandard:
Very nice techniques shown there Chuck.

This post is sure one to keep an eye on.

John

Ned Ludd:
Hi Darren,
You ask how you will remember all the useful tips, well don't worry it will all be tucked away waiting to come to the fore when needed. Well maybe you will remember too late, once in a while! :(
Last night I was machining a custom crank arm for a mates carbon fibre trike, well I was scratching the old bone dome as to how to machine the tapered sides. I could use the RT but the clamps would get in the way, then "eureka" moment, as I remembered Bogstandard's way of using pins to machine tapered gibs. Couple of minutes with calculator and Trig tables, with job mounted in vice using two number drill shanks and Hey Presto, job done. Beauty of the system is that by swapping drills end for end you can do the two sides perfectly equally. Before you ask still no photos, must try and find the camera!
Ned Ludd

chuck foster:
you know it is funny how we think we are going to do something and end up doing something else instead :scratch:

well i was hoping to finish off the ignitor tonight................well that didn't happen :doh:

i got out to the shop and started working on the cylinder, i installed a threaded boss on the side of the cylinder for the water cooler connection.
it is the brass piece near the bottom of the cylinder.

then i figured i would lap the bore to size (1.312")

i use a expandable brass barrel lap that is sold by a tool company called k.b.c. tools. to adjust the lap you turn the adjusting screw on the far right end of the lap.

here it is mounted in the lathe.as you can see i have a cloth covering the ways of the lathe, this is to prevent any lapping compound dripping onto the ways and ruining my lathe.

a closer shot

i spread lapping compound (in this case 150 grit) on to the lap with a small paint brush. then i dribble a small amount of cutting oil on the lap, just for some lubrication.

i then push the cylinder about 2" on to the lap. adjust the lap so you feel a small amount of drag when you try to turn the cylinder.

then i start the lathe (about 300 rpm) and slowly working the cylinder back and forth on the lap

while you are lapping you never want to pull the lap completely out of the cylinder bore. after a few minutes stop the lathe take the cylinder off the lap and clean out the cylinder bore and check to see if all the lathe machining marks are gone. if not tighten the lap about a quarter turn and repeat the whole process. when you are done you should have a nice cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bore like the next picture shows

i lap all the bores in my engines and i very rarely use piston rings, i just fit the piston to the bore with about 0.0002 to 0.0003 tho. clearence.
i have one engine that has about 1500 hours of running and it still has lots of compression.

eric: i didn't know you were ill, i hope all is well now my friend :thumbup:

darren: if you ever figure out how to remember all the ideas,tip's and tricks suggested on this forum........LET US KNOW HOW :thumbup: :beer:

well that,s all for tonight
chuck :wave:

Darren:
That is looking right professional Chuck :clap:

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