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| Darren:
--- Quote from: kvom on December 01, 2009, 07:55:50 AM ---If I understand it correctly, then the tapered D-bit is cutting only on the left edge, so you needed to offset it a bit on that the right side wouldn't rub. --- End quote --- I think both sides are in contact with the work and that is how D-Bits maintain their accuracy. Normally D-Bits are used for drilling true/straight holes at specific dia where drill bits have little chance of either. |
| bogstandard:
Kvom, Darren is correct in that both sides remain in contact, and that one or two thou above centre helps to keep it locked down onto the bore. Only when you have a front cutting face do you relieve the right hand side on that front cutting face. Nick, With a little care, you can easily make yourself a set of D-bits until you can afford reamers. Where they really score is what I have used one for this time, cutting tapered holes, but also they are very good for flat bottomed holes or curved bottom holes, usually difficult to do with a normal reamer. If you have a toolpost grinder, you can always resize them as well if needed, as the centre height isn't altered if you grind the cutting area. For short holes, you can easily make four or five D-bits from one cheap piece of silver steel. If you want I can take a piccy of some of the shapes that I have made over the years, just to show how versatile they really are. John |
| spuddevans:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on December 01, 2009, 09:57:48 AM ---If you want I can take a piccy of some of the shapes that I have made over the years, just to show how versatile they really are. --- End quote --- I think I'm safe in saying that I would absolutely want to see more pictures :thumbup: :thumbup: Tim |
| ozzie46:
Uhh Me to! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Ron |
| NickG:
That is the main thing I had seen them for John, flat bottomed holes. but also the instructions for sweet pea call for one as a sort of form tool to give the axle boxes a radius. Thanks, Nick |
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