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| 4" Vertex Rotary Table CNC conversion |
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| raynerd:
...pulling this one up from the dead!! I`ve just finished making two more of these, both will be posted on here shortly but I have a question. I`m fitting one of these to my friends 6" Myford rotary table which looks damn like the vertex rotabs I`ve seen and apparently he has taken the handwheel off and the shaft is 12mm. Now the stepper motor, depending on which we purchase has either a 6mm or 1/4" shaft. Where can I get an oldham coupling with one half 12mm and the other 6mm? Arc Euro sell a 33mm dia hub with a 12mm bore but the 33mm hub only goes down to 10mm bore. I know some of you guys have converted 6" rotabs and I think John Stevenson's does loads of these...what couplings do you guys use? Chris |
| John Stevenson:
Any of the 25mm ones can be bored out to 12mm. John S. |
| Chuck in E. TN:
craynerd, Where are you getting the printed circuit board for this? I purchased all the discrete parts x3, got the pic programmer, programmed the pic, but failed misserably on building the circuit on project board. I have tried several times to use the laser printer toner transfer method to make a circuit board, but so far have failed to get a transfer good enough to etch. Chuck |
| raynerd:
Hi Chuck, I`ve been using photo etching. I made a UV exposure box a while back: http://www.raynerd.co.uk/?p=493 and it has taken a long time but I`m getting better at etching recently and have had much more success with this method. I had a bit of a disaster when my power supply went awol and started feeding the wrong voltage to my UV LED box which is strange because the results ended up being that the photoresist wasn`t broken down properly (I expected with a higher voltage the UVs would be more intense but perhaps the LEDs were being over driven?). I`ve never used the toner transfer method so can`t help you there but what I would advise it to go back to Kwackers original post on CNC zone and around post number 346, page 29 there is a post by "Lucas" in which he provides an alternative copper screen and silk screen with much bigger tracks. Even with my "improved skills" at etching, I`ve been using Lucas` pcb design as it is just much easier to produce and is more forgiving in terms of errors in the etching. Infact, even when I was having the issues with my LEDs, I still got a working board from it, despite the etching process being a shambolic effort!! He adds an extra cap across two LCD lines which I`m not sure about as I`ve never done this myself and they aren`t on Kwackers pcb. There is also an extra cap across the area that is regulating the voltage. But the board works 100% and the pcb is good. I`m now back at work but if you are still struggling in the next few weeks, let me know and I`ll see if I can get one etched and sent over to you. All the best. Chris |
| raynerd:
John, sorry, I read this earlier today and sent the info to my friend to order them and forgot to reply. Many thanks for the information! Chris |
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