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| Russel:
That is interesting. I have never used a split die threading tool before, but I have seen them over the years. Every one that I remember has an adjustment screw to set the thread size, and at least one dimple. The largest split die that I got was #10, so there won't be any huge amount of torque involved it using them. But, I will probably be getting some bigger dies in the future. So, I would like to know the proper way to secure the split die. I took a look at MSCdirect.com where I purchased these "inexpensive" split dies, the die handles all have three grub screws like the tailstock tap and die holder set up you made, geroli. I'm going to do a little research, but it looks like I will probably be adding a couple more grub screws. Thank you for pointing this out to me. Russ |
| Bernd:
Russel, First, thanks for the pics and description of the tooling. Gonning heve to look into that for my Sherline. As far as the Tap Magic goes it states on the can that it can be used for all metals and any kind of cutting method. :scratch: Go figure. Bernd |
| Darren:
I have both types of dies, well just one with the adjusting screw :) I prefer the other with the two/three dimples and no screw, but it's just what I'm used to I guess. |
| Russel:
Well, after giving it some thought I decided to simply add another grub screw 180 degrees from the first one so that they would match the round dies that I have. If I get a die without an adjusting screw and dimples at 45 degrees from the split, I can simply add a couple more grub screws to the guide. Here is a photo...it looks like the grub screws arn't lined up, that's just the photo. I assure you, there are exactly 15 grooves on either side of each grub screw. Again, with a die. I should be getting some drill rod that I ordered today. When I get a chance I'll cut some threads and post the results. Russ |
| Russel:
I got a chance to play in the shop a little today, so I cut some threads with one of the “inexpensive” dies. The material is W-1 drill rod, also know as silver steel, if I'm not mistaken. I sawed about 2” of .250" diameter and faced the two ends. Then centered it in the 2.5” 4 jaw chuck. I wanted to spend a little time cutting the material, seeing as how I've never worked with drill rod and wanted to get a feel for it. So, I decided to turn it down to .125” for about an inch and thread it 5-40. (The American National Standard screw number sizes are kind of strange but I found that you multiply the size by .013" and add .060" and you get the diameter for the size. The exception is size number 0 which is .060" So, .013" X 5 = .065" plus .060" =.125") Well, it didn't take long for me to figure out that I couldn't cut it down to .125 for 1” unsupported. By the time I had it turned to .150” the unsupported end was .003” larger than the chuck end. So, I busted out a follower rest for it's first use. (I went tool crazy a couple years back...yet another “had to have” tool.) The setup was pretty straight forward. I did have to chase some 10-32 threads on one part of it and file a bevel in the corner of the brass followers but the thing worked perfectly. I was really amazed. I figured that because I had a taper it wouldn't completely straighten out the part, but with one .010” pass the taper was less than .001” I also figured out that once you get the cutting bit close to the chuck you can stop, back the followers out and finish the cut. The part didn't need support once you got close to the chuck. I also figured out (and I know better) not to let the follower come in contact with the chuck. Anyway, here is the result. Then I set up my new handy dandy die guide with a 5-40 die in it. I used a little Tap Magic EP-extra to lube the cutter and was surprised how well the guide worked. I could thread the part just using my hand to turn the body of the guide, but found it much easier to use the 4” tommy bar to turn the guide. So, here is what I ended up with: Not too bad considering the quality of the die. One thing that kind of surprised me was how the end of the part came out. The blank was straight and before I used the die, I put a 45° bevel on the end, but it came out with kind of a taper. Well, I'm satisfied with it for now. I should work OK for some little steam engine projects. Russ |
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