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| Another version of how not to build a model engine |
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| sorveltaja:
The shutter at the carb's throat doesn't seem to solve the adjusting problem :scratch:. Anyway, I finally got a tachometer reading, about 4100 rpm, but the engine goes even faster than that, if allowed. Mostly I have to kill the spark to stop it. Any advices on that carburetor thing would be greatly appreciated. |
| John Hill:
How about a restrictor on the exhaust? That should tame the beast! :coffee: |
| sorveltaja:
--- Quote from: John Hill on November 15, 2009, 01:33:49 PM ---How about a restrictor on the exhaust? That should tame the beast! :coffee: --- End quote --- Thanks for the tip :thumbup:. I was just getting to testing it, when I heard 'crack' and the engine stopped suddenly, resulting this: Reason was the M2 nut, that keeps the connecting rod in place. It was loosened, and finally it fell off. So far, I haven't found any other damages. Lesson learned: The nut only isn't good way to secure the connecting rod end. As an alternative, I'm going to attach a bearing disk to crankcase backplate. What comes to crankshaft, only the shaft is bent, so I'll drill it off, and replace it with a hardened 3 mm rod. |
| sorveltaja:
Here is the crank disk and new rod, that are to be silver soldered together: Bits and pieces: Another view of cylinder head and liner: From the top: Crankcase is fastened to base with two M3 screws: |
| sorveltaja:
Repaired crankshaft with ball bearings: |
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