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| Another version of how not to build a model engine |
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| Darren:
It deff looks red to me, but no matter :lol: It's so you can't secretly film people without their knowledge :thumbup: |
| Darren:
You have certainly had perseverance with this little engine ... top marks on the development :thumbup: |
| sorveltaja:
Thanks again :wave:. This project has teached me a whole lot about how to make a four-stroker run :med:. Especially the sidevalvers have always fascinated me, so the next project is most probably a small flatty twin four-banger. Current engine has became kind of reference, and I'll continue the testing with it once in a while. |
| sorveltaja:
The sparking plug, and especially its ptfe insulator, has became a bottleneck, when testing the engine, as it erodes away too fast. I have made few rings out of ceramics, that are to be used on the business end of the plugs. Hopefully that eliminates the insulation wearing -problem. |
| madjackghengis:
As a matter of course, I would suggest the nut would work just fine, but only needs a drop of locktite to keep it retained. I've been building Harley engines for some thirty odd years and the only thing that keeps all their parts on the engine is locktite or self-locking nuts, cotter keys, bunged up threads and the like. As a rule of thumb for an engine, a carb bore of a quarter the cylinder bore is usually a good size to start with. This works well with multi-cylinder engines as well, as only one cylinder is fed at a time. A smooth venturi with a good taper leading up to it helps keep a consistent vacuum to pull fuel in as well. For what its worth, mad jack |
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