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raynerd:
Jere, I was directed to P.P Thornton on the NAWCC board a while ago and then again from the yahoo group "Clockmakers". They are certainly well known for well made cutters and apparently, cutters that should outlast my time using them! I am working to a budget in some respects. I don`t mind paying for quality equipment that I can use many times but cutters seem overly expensive when you need some many and different ones for clocks built. I worked out it would cost me £208 plus VAT and Postage for the cutters for this one clock alone. I`m going to have to give single point cutters a trial as you may have seen in my thread in the project logs or my blog: http://clockbuilding.blogspot.com

I look forward to reading your documentation for cutting your escape wheel and making the cutter.

If you could spare some time, I would be infinitely grateful if you could tell us a little more about the Jacots Tool and how it is or can be used. I am currently reading three clock building books and various sources on the internet and all go into some detail about its use but I still can`t see exactly how it is used.

Just curious, perhaps I have missed the topic when reading your site but what tweezers are you using? I am looking to purchase a pair, possibly Dumont but I am unsure which are the most suitable for clockmaking and have read various contradicting pieces.


Regards
Chris

bogstandard:
Jere,


--- Quote ---eventually realized that I was more interested in how watches are made than I was in watches themselves, which I imagine this forum is one of few places where that could be understood.
--- End quote ---

I honestly believe you have struck the right chord there.

I never thought about it before, but speaking for myself, and I hope the others in our mottley band, I don't think any member on here has the feeling that they are really at the top of the class in what they have decided to call their own specialisation, but everyone does have a real interest in what other people stick their fingers into.

Methinks that is why, most times, we are all wanting to learn more.


Bogs


Darren:
Well put John, describes me perfectly


Always ready to learn and then try to apply, though rarely could I be called a craftsman  :lol:

Bernd:
Jere,

I started a thread in the "General Crafts" section on the pocket watch I have. Didn't want to hi-jack your thread.

I also included a few pics of some of the wifes collection.

Bernd

Jere:

--- Quote from: craynerd on November 04, 2009, 06:22:37 AM ---Jere, I was directed to P.P Thornton on the NAWCC board a while ago and then again from the yahoo group "Clockmakers". They are certainly well known for well made cutters and apparently, cutters that should outlast my time using them! I am working to a budget in some respects. I don`t mind paying for quality equipment that I can use many times but cutters seem overly expensive when you need some many and different ones for clocks built. I worked out it would cost me £208 plus VAT and Postage for the cutters for this one clock alone. I`m going to have to give single point cutters a trial as you may have seen in my thread in the project logs or my blog: http://clockbuilding.blogspot.com

I look forward to reading your documentation for cutting your escape wheel and making the cutter.

If you could spare some time, I would be infinitely grateful if you could tell us a little more about the Jacots Tool and how it is or can be used. I am currently reading three clock building books and various sources on the internet and all go into some detail about its use but I still can`t see exactly how it is used.

Just curious, perhaps I have missed the topic when reading your site but what tweezers are you using? I am looking to purchase a pair, possibly Dumont but I am unsure which are the most suitable for clockmaking and have read various contradicting pieces.


Regards
Chris

--- End quote ---

To touch on some of your comments/questions...

My first choice in books on horological wheel (gear) cutting is J. Malcolm Wild's book "Wheel and Pinion Cutting in Horology."  His website is http://www.j-m-w.co.uk/contact.html.  He provides just about anything one would need to know on the subject, and gives instruction on using a bench lathe, the Myford for clock wheels/pinions and a Schaublin 70 for watch wheels, however the methods are applicable to any make.  There is a chapter on making cutters, including making multi-point cutters.  He also shows how they make them at PP Thornton, it is thirty-some steps, (as I recall) and are made from M42 cobalt HSS.  Perhaps I am naive, but seeing what's involved, I think their prices reflect the product, but it doesn't make the price any easier to swallow.  I bought them as I needed them, and do not wish to add up what they cost me in total, it may make me a little ill...  When I bought most of them the exchange rate was hovering around $2 to £1 !

Perhaps I will post the Jacot setup I made on the Gallery page and describe its use, rather than do it here.  In short, it is simply a means of supporting the pivot of an arbor or pinion on the lathe for the purpose of finishing/polishing/burnishing the surface.  There are various ways to do this without a Jacot, per se, some very experienced folks even do it by hand with a pinvise and a block of wood.

For tweezers, I am a fan of Dumont.  For clockwork, I would go with a sturdy size, say #1 or even #OO which are fairly thick, the advantage of working on clocks is that most things can be picked up in the fingers.  I use #2 for most watch parts and recently switched to Brass tweezers, which are about the size of #3, mine happen to be Peer-Vigor brand, but Dumont also makes them.  The brass is nice since it will not scratch parts and they have a slightly more delicate feel to them.  For steel tweezers, Dumont makes each size in about 4 or 5 different grades of steel, I bought the high end "Dumostar," but it is likely completely unnecessary for general work (it was one of first watch tools I ever bought).  For watches, magnetized tools can cause trouble, and their higher grade steels are non-magnetic, harder, and chemical resistant, etc.  

Jere

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