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| sbwhart:
Nick As the guys say, keep at it, and keep your cool, and you'll have a runner. Good luck Stew |
| NickG:
Thanks for the encouragement guys. I gave it a quick try while I was supposed to be making the tea last night! I gave it a quick clean first as there was a nasty brown deposit. Then set the timing and tried to position the flame as per Jan's and yours John. Still couldn't get anything out of it, but the characteristics seemed different. There was sort of more whooshing sound and the flame kept blowing out if I flicked the flywheel too fast. THis time the thing gummed up with that deposit really quickly. I am just using an old bottle of methylated spirits, is there anything I can easily get that will burn cleaner? At this point I have an apology to make for being stubborn / not listening. You may remember me asking questions about the crankpin, and that John recommended doing it in a certain way. Well I stubbornly did it my way, the way I had done on my hot air engine. This was for 2 reasons, 1. to make it simpler to make, and 2. because I wasn't mega confident everything would be dead straight so I thought allowing a little floating of the bearing on the pin would let things self align. Well I think it all is pretty much inline, but because of the relatively long rod, it does float quite a bit side to side, sometimes getting close to the crank disk. I can't feel any undue friction and it doesn't seem to touch it ever but it is annoying me now. The other main point that John mentioned at the time was ease of disassembly to clean everything out - well on mine, it's not exactly easy to take to bits. So it'll be getting a nice knurled screw (if I can manage to do a nice knurl - not done that since uni days) as Bogs suggested with the right clearances built in. So feel free to give me a :poke: and :wack: and I hope you accept my apology, I didn't do it blindly - I had a couple of reasons but I should have digested what you were saying more. I was also trying to think which way would be best to spin it, but it really shouldn't make any difference at all. Jan suggests a small clearance between striker assembly and cylinder when at TDC and when at BDC there should be about 1-1.5mm overlap of the valve and port. Is this about the same as yours? Thanks, Nick |
| NickG:
Quick check in. Last night I realised a difference in the way Ihad made the valve rod which may have affected things. John's rod has a 90 deg right angle silver soldered - this allows limiting the travel of the valve into the cylinder and Jan's new method with the bend is bent in such a way to limit this. Mine however, ended up with a slightly different bend allowing the valve to travel further in which could alter timing. So I turned up a coller with a set screw in it to limit that travel, just as I can at the other end by the striker block. Tried the engine again, still no signs of life that I can detect. Sometimes it sounds like it might kick a bit but that could be my mind playing tricks! I'm at a bit of a loss what to try next. I think it is set up as per the plans and it seems to pass the tests Jan suggests. If anything, I've never been happy with the fit of the piston / valve. I might need to re-lap the bore and carefully make a new piston and valve. It also needs a burner and base making to stop it wobbling about and me having to hold the burner in place. So still trouble shooting. I thought it might be tricky this one! Nick |
| Rob.Wilson:
WOW Nick :bugeye: great looking engine ,great build log too Regards Rob |
| NickG:
Thanks Rob! Noticed you said great LOOKING, that's all it is at the moment if I can't get the damn thing running! :( Keeping all my fingers and toes crossed though. Nick |
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