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sbwhart:
Good going Nick I recon we'll soon have a runner :thumbup:

Are you making the base out of ally? if so you could try making the edge trimming D bit from case hardened mild steel it may just work as a one off, I think Bernd used a one off mild steel cutter on his south bend indexer thread.

Have fun

Stew

NickG:
Stew,

Yes the base is ally. I think I am going to try the D-Bit route just for the experience if nothing else. I might be able to get one big enough for a chamfer out of the 3/16" silver steel if I'm careful.

If I went the mild seel route would I need case hardening powder or is there any other way you can do it?

Many thanks,

Nick

sbwhart:
Nick

You'll need the case hardening powder its the only home shop method I know, unless anyone else knows another way.
If you can hang on until next week I can get a bit of larger silver steel to you by the usual method.

Stew

NickG:
Stew,

Thanks for the info and the offer. I've just realised that with the way I had to machine the base - had to pack it on wood with edges over hanging. I could actually turn it upside down and use my 45deg dovetail cutter and take a small chamfer off the underside. This should work shouldn't it?

Here is last night's installment - I'm absolutely knackered, was in there until around 2am which is a bit silly but I just got into one of those moods thinking I am not leaving until I do what I intended!

I started by sawing the base to rough length and milling the sides in the vice to give the correct width.

Unfortunately it won’t fit in my vice so I had to remove the vice and clamp it on 2 blocks of wood with the edges overhanging. So I clocked it with a little gadget for my dial indicator another member kindly donated. Thanks very much :thumbup:

I milled the ends square:

I then marked it up as a precaution.

Drilled all the holes, centre drilling first.

Then I realized I didn’t have any 2ba bolts, screws or anything! Pretty pissed off, I set about making some screws in a mad frenzy! Unfortunately, because I was rushing the shank size is slightly bigger than 2ba clearance size so I had to open the holes in the base up a bit.

Everything bolted up quite nicely.

But I must have made a mistake somewhere in my calculations! :doh: :bang: Good job I took bogs advice and didn’t finish the base yet! The piston was not coming to the end of the bore, but at the other end it was sticking out by the same amount. This meant I had either drilled the holes too close together on the base – I was annoyed and about to re-drill / slot the holes, then I thought why – I can just shorten the conrod. So I did that and it means no damage to the base. It all looks how I intended so think I must have made the con rod wrong! Actually, come to think of it, when I wound the distance in using the milling machine dials I thought, that’s miles out … but put it down to the dials, I know them to be inaccurate over large distances – probably the pitch error on the lead screws. So I thought nothing of it and used my markings instead. Maybe I calculated the marking wrongly – oh well, no matter.

It spins over nice and freely so the only thing left to do was try it!

Unfortunately I couldn’t get a peep out of it, :( I was just holding the burner in different positions whilst trying to spin the flywheel but it didn’t show any signs of life. It makes a nice sucking noise and you could see it sucking the flame in and blowing it out if held in the wrong place. I need to have a proper look at flame positions, size of flame and timing of the valve now – I didn’t think timing would be an issue but maybe it is. I bit dis-heartened but I will keep trying, it can’t be that far away. If it still doesn’t show anything I’ll go for a new piston and valve.

Nick

NickG:
Just found this one which looks interesting! Good effort there! &feature=fvw

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