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NickG: Thanks guys.  I do need to keep at it. Chris, I wouldn't say I'm more competent at all! I think I will try running in, it does make sense as the tight spot isn't very tight but I think if I tried to lap any further, the tight spot would become a loose spot! I don't actually think the valve should travel that far in anyway though, I think I just got excited because it did something! No disrespect to Jan as his stuff is wonderful and it is a very innovative design, but I just think things are very critical to get them to run. As I said, I read through the poppin instructions yesterday and a lot of things in that make a lot of sense. If I try that one at least I'll know whether it's just me or not! Even in those instructions it mentions about how critical the fit of piston and friction is though and the fact it can bring a grown man to tears! Having said that, I have seen a few versions of Jan's internal valve engine that work very well - Jan's, another couple on youtube and Bogs'. All these people are much more experienced / better machinists than me though! John, talcum powder sounds a good idea, I also thought toothpaste but that might be too coarse? Nick

John Hill: Nick, I think tooth paste would be much more abrasive than talcum.

NickG: Ok, might do a test with talcum on something that doesn't matter! I really need to get better at boring holes and lapping things - I think this might be my downfall. Nick

NickG: Hello, hope everybody had a nice Christmas and are looking forward to the new year. I made a lighter flywheel tonight, tried the engine again and am afraid to say the next remedial action I take will be the last resort!  :( The flywheel didn't seem to make any noticable difference. At a certain setting I think, although it's extremely difficult to tell, that there is some tiny sign of life. However, I am puzzled as to why it is so small, so it might be psycological! This only happens if I put plenty of oil on the piston and valve, which is understandable as they will make a better seal with oil, but I would have thought with this seal and very little friction I would at least be able to clearly see the engine trying to turn over or a power stroke. If I set the valve up so its travel into the cylinder is not limited - i.e. it get's pulled further in causing more overlap with the port, I think I get some sort of power stroke but then the valve sticks - surely this can't be the right way to set it up though as some of the power stroke will be wasted pulling the valve in at the same time as the piston. Anyway, the only thing left to try really is reaming out the cylinder with an adjustable reamer (luckily I have found one the right size range) to make sure it is perfectly round and parallel - it isn't at the moment which is why the valve sticks. Then I will have to make a new piston and valve so will need to go and buy some more cast iron. I will also take the opportunity to make these components to the drawing this time, i.e. hollowed out incase this 'quenching' phenomonen people have talked about has any effect. If those things don't work, along with a larger burner wick, I will just have to put it down to the fact my machining isn't quite up to the job yet! At which point, after having a good cry, I will start collecting materials together for 'poppin'. I get the impression this might be a tiny bit more forgiving but I still think it'll be a challenge - hopefully if nothing else I'll be able to learn a few lessons from my first flame gulper experience! Here is a pic of the engine with experimental flywheel: Not pretty but gave me a chance to try out some of my christmas pressies:   :offtopic: Not shown in there was a set of carbide tipped lathe tools and a set of metric taps & dies. The idea with the carbide tools being that it will save me a lot of time setting tool heights, if they are all the same height I can make 1 piece of packing the correct height. Unfortunately I didn't do my homework very well and the 8mm shank ones are a  bit small for my lathe really. Still seem to work really well, I only tried what I assume is a roughing tool on the aluminium flywheel and it gave a cracking finish as long as I kept cleaning the build up off it and had the speed higher than usual. Also tried a 4mm tap and die from the axminster set which worked well except the T type tap wrench which didn't seem to grip very well - I think the tap was just too big for it. The keyless drill chuck that Bogs recommended from RDG really does look amazing quality for the price but they have sent a MT with a tang on it and it won't fit in my milling machine, too long I think so can't try it yet. Other things include a de-burring tool which works nicely for holes. A small metric tap and dies set, slide way oil and cutting oil, a tailstock die holder and a wiggler set, which if anybody knows how to use, please tell me! Nick

Bernd: Nick, Put the engine aside for a while. Perhaps one day you'll have an "Ah ha" moment and get it to run. Nice pressies by the way. I've got tool envey.  :clap: Bernd

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