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| raynerd:
As Stew advised, or at least a varient, I need something to back the whole thing so that the brass teeth don`t bend under the force of the cutter. I have decided to back it with a piece of sacrificial wood. The cutter will follow through the brass into the wood and so will support the teeth from bending. I`ve seen this used in practice so I know it can work .... whether I can do it is a different story! This is the wood I`m going to use with the wheel sat on top of it: After some working on the wood (don`t like them damn brown flakes, they get everywhere!!) I got it down to size. I also used a thick brass sheet off-cut, turned it into a washer and mounted this at the front of the plate. This seemed to work really well, everything looks to be held down flush, running true and secure. I then mounted the wheel blank in my RT and used a draw bolt to pull it through and clamp it down. Just need to change the chuck to my er32 collet chuck, mount the cutter and off I go .... in theory! I also hardened the cutter this evening so tomorrow I really a ready to give it a whirl! Chris |
| NickG:
That setup looks great to me Chris. Good luck. So is this just proving a theory, or are you going to start whittling up the rest of the clock wheels if this works? Nick |
| Darren:
Looking good so far ... be interesting to see how this goes ... :dremel: |
| Stilldrillin:
Good luck Chris! :thumbup: |
| sbwhart:
Looking good Chris Just check that the job is standing away from the RT far enough for the cutter to clear, its not a bad idea to rig a stop up on the table so that you dont run the cutter into the RT, gives you one less thing to worry about, when cutting a lot of teeth you want to focus on geting the indexing right. Hope this helps good luck Stew |
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