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Clock wheel cutter

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bogstandard:
Do you know that the cutter is mounted in the wrong direction for cutting?

If it was the other way around, it would be trying to tighten the nut rather than undo it.



Bogs

raynerd:
No I didn`t, thanks for pointing it out! I`ve just flipped it around now and understand exactly what you mean. I didn`t consider that  :doh:

Chris

NickG:
Chris,

Also, when making the arbor, did you do it with an accurate plain diameter that fits into the hole in the cutter?

I noticed that when you made your arbor for making the cutter you didn't really, it was just mounted on the thread of the bolt which isn't the most accurate. Also, you then took it out of the chuck, losing any concentricity you had machined into it. So the trick for machining outside profiles is to have the component you are machining ready to bolt onto the arbor and once you have turned the accurate location diameter, you don't take it out of the chuck, mount the component on it and gently turn the OD. You have to watch the rigidity and take light cuts here though otherwise you'll get chatter and will mess the whole thing up depending on how good the arbor design is. This is the way I do things like flywheels and loco wheels etc.

What are you going to make the clock wheel out of? Presumably it's going to be very thin so you'll be taking extremely light cuts I would imagine anyway?

Nick

raynerd:
Nick - it will be 16g (1.55mm) CZ120 brass plate.

I`ve been reading over your post and I think, if I have read your post correctly, that that is what I did with this cutter. I machined the diameter, fitted the cutter on and then continued to take it down a fraction to the threading dia without taking it out of the chuck..... is this what you mean?

Chris

NickG:
Yeah that's right Chris, sorry, I just wasn't sure whether you did, that's the best practice. I suppose you didn't need to go to those lengths of accuracy when you were just making the profile for the cutter itself.

Good work.

Nick

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