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| Making a MT taper |
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| tinkerer:
Over the last several days, I finished the taper and drilled and taped 1/2 X 13 threads for the draw bar. I can't go any further until the change gears get here so I can make the draw bar. I will have to practice making threads because I have never done that. This was done in 15-20 minute spurts as I had time, so no pictures. I just didn't think about it. After I get the draw bar made, I will be able to turn the spigots to adapt the collet holder to the taper. |
| tinkerer:
Here are a couple of pictures, one of the taper and one of the threads. I can tell you, this metal is fickle. It isn't consistant throughout in hardness. Sometimes the metal comes off very smooth and other times it chips and grinds. Tapping it was an experience in holding my breath, expecting anything could go wrong at any moment. I doubt I could have tapped it with anything smaller than 1/2" without breaking a tap. Come on change gears. |
| bogstandard:
Tink, The worst thing you can do with unknown material is to try to turn or thread it dry. You must use some sort of lube. If you haven't got the right one, anything is better than nothing at all. Even dirty engine oil (not recommended, but as I said anything is better than nothing). Spit on the end of the centre drill is an old machinist trick when starting to cut with it. Bogs |
| tinkerer:
Thanks Bogs. I have Boelube for drilling and tapping and never even gave it a thought to use it. :bang: :bang: You would think having drilled a quadrillion holes, it would be second nature to grab a lube. That must be what retirement does. I have many things to do before I have it set up properly. I have to set up a collection system for lube. I have an old hydroponics pump and tank for a delivery system, but I have to build a way to get it back to the tank. What type of lube is recommended and do you run it through a filter constantly? My local scrappy is working with me to get all of the materials I will be needing, it will just take some time before I can dedicate myself. I have been reading threads about threading and I see that Darren uses the 90 deg with success, but I also see that others recommend an angle of 29.5 deg on the top slide. I will practice on aluminum first, but the 29.5 makes a lot of sence to keep the back of the cutter from rubbing. I see now why 3 &4 year apprenticeships are served before becoming Journeymen. |
| Darren:
Hi Tink, You are right that I use 90deg or straight plunge when threading. So far I have got away with it. The main reason people set over to about half the angle is to reduce the cutting face and thus chatter. It's probably just a question of suck it and see how your tooling copes. |
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