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| Making a MT taper |
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| tinkerer:
Thanks fellas. I think it is like my putting, I read the line and didn't have confidence and pulled it out of the cup. :bang: :bang: Bogs post gives me confidence, but Bama and Tenn are playing, so it will have to wait. |
| Gerhard Olivier:
I did the really small hammer technique Just as Bogs have said with lots of measuring. You will get it just hang on. Gerhard |
| sbwhart:
I turn Morse taper using the offset method, checking the off set with a DTI. No1 Morse is 0.624" per foot:- No 2 0.599" per foot:- No 3 0.602":- N0 4 0.623:- Just mark off a couple of inches on the bar, off set the tailstock and run the clock along the bar noting how much it moves when you get the correct figure lock everything up and go ahead and turn your taper you won't be far off. Hope this helps Stew |
| tinkerer:
Stew, My next taper will be done with the offset tailstock. The winding of the compound is just too much, especially since I don't have enough travel to cover the whole job and have to reset the carriage and wind all over again. Thanks for the tip and the dimensions. I was worried about getting the tail stock back in position, but with Bogs tip on the ruler, it shouldn't be that hard. I will finish this taper as I am doing, but if I screw it up, I will learn the offset method. |
| bogstandard:
Tink, What you have to realise, that when setting over the tailstock, you will have to learn about turning between centres first. As soon as the tailstock is moved over and it is still used for support, then you cannot hold the one end in the chuck, both ends have to be supported on centres. So something new for you to conquer. Just a tip, centre drill both ends of the job BEFORE moving the tailstock off centre, as you won't be able to use the tailstock for drilling while it is off centre. Bogs |
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