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Wheel holding arbor.

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raynerd:
I am looking to make a wheel holding arbor to hold clock wheels for truing and eventually cutting. I want to mount the wheels directly in my RT in the 2MT. Since many wheel blanks have different centres, but these need cutting to size before truing, it would be expensive and time consuming to make a new arbor for each wheel centre hole with a 2MT. I have been looking online and I have found a few descriptions but nothing explicitly clear. This is my current design and understanding. sorry nothing fancy, just a bit of "paint"ing!



I will need to cut different centre collets / bushings (I don`t know exactly what they mean by a collet in horology but this is my understanding) for each wheel, the collet narrows the centre bore to match the arbour diameter. The hole lot is bolted to the sacrificial back plate. I have even seen people use wood as their back plate.

I was thinking about having a M4 bolt and consequently 4mm diameter arbor, this would allow me to mount any wheel with the smallest centre hole of 4mm, anything bigger and collets can be used to mount it.

Anyone any thoughts about this? Can anyone see any problems or a better way of doing it?

Chris

raynerd:
Just been thinking, perhaps it would be easier to drill and thread a hole in the arbour and bolt the hole lot on? Can`t see it making a big difference but perhaps a little easier to tap a hole.

Also, just been searching online and I have found this nice idea of turning in a box to allow you to accurately bore out a centre hole further. Would you still need to use collets with this method or could you just drill for the mandrel/arbor diameter and then bore then to size after? Just a thought:





Chris

sbwhart:

--- Quote from: craynerd on October 21, 2009, 09:19:42 AM ---


--- End quote ---

Chris what you have to concider is the level of acuracy you want, with this design of arbour your incesing the oportunities for any error to build up, ie with one register diameter you'll have a slight error in fit, with two register diameters you have two slight errors in with three etc etc, added them together = bigger overall error.

Thats why its better to tranfer the job in the lathe chuck over to the RT if you've got a good adaptor for your RT, it reduces the number of errors your adding together.

Hope this helps

Stew

raynerd:
Hi Stew,

Thanks for your reply, my plan was to turn the wheel in the 3MT (using a 2-3Mt sleeve) in my headstock on the lathe - that being said, I`d not considered how I`ll stake the MT into my lathe headstock as I haven`t a draw bar long enough, guess I`d need to make one. I`d then take this out of the headstock, remove the sleeve and then transfer to the 2MT RT. Will this still add the errors and best to use a chuck and adaptor? - if you think that mounting in the chuck will be better than I`ll knock this idea on the head.

Chris

p.s - know anything about module "size" gear cutters?

 

sbwhart:
Chris I've sent info on modular size gears to your email adress, can't seem to get into photo bucket this morning for me to add it her.

Regards mandrell you've just got to come up with the best option for the kit you've got, try and keep the oportunity for errors to the minimum.

Stew

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